Category Archives: Morelos

Bicycling through Mexico one fish at a time

Tuesday September 22, 2015, 163 miles (262 km) – Total so far: 11,363 miles (18,287 km)

Three days 163 miles We left the Mexico City Hostel and spent two nights with Santiago in his condo about 10 miles from the historical city center. Santiago is an architect and was very busy with a project so we toured around the beautiful University of Mexico and his neighborhood. He lives in a high-rise condo and the daily afternoon lighting storms and rain were amazing. The first night he and a friend Mariana cooked us a great fish dinner. They both cycled through South America to Ushuaia, Argentina a few years ago and gave us some great tips on our upcoming trip there. We are rethinking our time there since it will be winter south of the equator. After a great week in Mexico City we boarded a bus back to Acapulco and his mom’s cliff side townhouse overlooking the Pacific Ocean. It’s funny that when we see a bus pass us while we are cycling we think “what luxury but the people aren’t seeing anything like a cyclist does”. When we are on a bus we think, “How boring is this.” What great timing we had celebrating Mexico’s 205th Independence Day with them. We will always remember this week.

Sunday morning we loaded up our bikes and headed south out of Acapulco. There is a large climb of about 3 miles after leaving the city. The pass is only 960 feet but very steep in parts so we rode some, walked some, and rested in shady areas on this very hot day. Mexico City at over 7,000 feet was much cooler. It was at times a struggle since we haven’t ridden for a week.

On the south side of Acapulco are miles and miles of FLAT beaches. I had to think, “Are we still in Mexico?” Flat straight roads can be very boring but once in a while they are a blessing – and we had a tail wind too! The layout is very similar to Italy last year as there are no public beaches, at least where we are anyway. There are beach clubs and huge resorts. Everything else is fenced off. We had a nice lunch at one of the beach clubs then continued south where late in the day we found a family hotel. We had looked at a few others but they were way overpriced and touristy. We like being with the locals and the Mar Azul Hotel a block from the beach was our stop for the night. An older senorita runs the place and was very nice. As usual we are the only ones here. But at $24 and the beach with a seafood restaurant it was the place for us. We like being away from tourists and enjoy the locals. We swam in the ocean, enjoyed watching the horses and dogs run around on the beach along with a beautiful sunset as we don’t see this in Florida.

The next two days we continued south and stayed in the towns of Cruz Grande and Cuajinicuilata. The riding continues to be hot in the 110’sF. We take many breaks for shade, water, fruit, and Gatorade. Combined with the hills it can be tough but we persevere. The countryside is beautiful and the people very friendly. Our goal in the next three days is a warmshowers host in Puerto Escondido. This small fishing town is known as the Mexican Pipeline (as in Banzai Pipeline, Hawaii). Maybe there will be some surf!

Surf report:

1-1.6m 10kph Light, Onshore

Primary Swell 0.7m at 18s Secondary Swell 0.7m at 8s Fair Air 32°c Sea 31 °c

40 years ago while laying new subway cable the remains of an Aztec Temple was found. Several buildings were removed to expose this.
40 years ago while laying new subway cable the remains of an Aztec Temple was found. Several buildings were removed to expose this.
Next door is the Metropolitan Cathedral built several hundred years ago over this temple. Several areas were excavated in front of the cathedral. Glass was placed over some areas showing the temple remains.
Next door is the Metropolitan Cathedral built several hundred years ago over this temple. Several areas were excavated in front of the cathedral. Glass was placed over some areas showing the temple remains.
The historical center getting back to normal after Independence Day festivities.
The historical center getting back to normal after Independence Day festivities.
We stayed with Santiago in his nice condo overlooking the city. He and his friend Mariana cooked us a delicious fish dinner. Santiago bicycled from Columbia, South America to Ushuaia, Argentina a few years ago. Mariana joined him from further south of there. Thanks for the great dinner and hosting us in Mexico City and Acapulco, Santiago!
We stayed with Santiago in his nice condo overlooking the city. He and his friend Mariana cooked us a delicious fish dinner. Santiago bicycled from Columbia, South America to Ushuaia, Argentina a few years ago. Mariana joined him from further south of there. Thanks for the great dinner and hosting us in Mexico City and Acapulco, Santiago!
The library at the University Of Mexico.
The library at the University Of Mexico.
Great bike shop and Othon. Now we have two spare tires again. A real working bike shop.
Great bike shop and Othon. Now we have two spare tires again. A real working bike shop.
On our way by bus back to Acapulco. Thanks Santiago! What a nice guy.
On our way by bus back to Acapulco. Thanks Santiago! What a nice guy.
The view from a lunch spot.
The view from a lunch spot.
Coco Beach. Not in Florida though.
Coco Beach. Not in Florida though.

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Looking back at Acapulco.
Looking back at Acapulco.

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A tough climb. Some riding, walking and resting.
A tough climb. Some riding, walking and resting.
South of Acapulco.
South of Acapulco.
On the right is pescado a la talla. Sea bass cooked in peppers. Delicious not too spicy. Jocelyn had seared tuna. Our favorite part of Mexico is the variety of fish and cooking methods.
On the right is pescado a la talla. Sea bass cooked in peppers. Delicious not too spicy. Jocelyn had seared tuna. Our favorite part of Mexico is the variety of fish and cooking methods.
Jocelyn meets Jocelin, our lunch host.
Jocelyn meets Jocelin, our lunch host.

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A very nice hotel with a beach down the street and pool for $18. The older senorita proprietor was so nice and accommodating.
A very nice hotel with a beach down the street and pool for $18. The older senorita proprietor was so nice and accommodating.
I'm glad there is a gill netting ban in Florida...
I’m glad there is a gill netting ban in Florida…
...as the little fish don't have a chance. We used to catch lots of Bonnet Head sharks such as this in Florida. We threw them all back. Maybe these little ones are good in soup.
…as the little fish don’t have a chance. We used to catch lots of Bonnet Head sharks such as this in Florida. We threw them all back. Maybe these little ones are good in soup.
Sorting through the day's catch.
Sorting through the day’s catch.
A nice swimming break.
A nice swimming break.
How cool!
How cool!
Everything for sale!
Everything for sale!
Donuts for sale.
Donuts for sale.
Waiting for dinner.
Waiting for dinner.
The fleets in.
The fleets in.

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A beautiful Mexican sunset.
A beautiful Mexican sunset.
Animals on the beach. Very cool.
Animals on the beach. Very cool.
The fish don't have a chance whether incoming or outgoing.
The fish don’t have a chance whether incoming or outgoing.
Huge melons. The senorita wanted us to buy one and offered us string. We laughed.
Huge melons. The senorita wanted us to buy one and offered us string. We laughed.
Beautiful riding.
Beautiful riding.
A quiet and friendly town to stay in.
A quiet and friendly town to stay in.
I'm glad these and the federales are riding the road.
I’m glad these and the federales are riding the road.
A fruit and Gatorade rest stop.
A fruit and Gatorade rest stop.
Delicious camarones along with a coconut.
Delicious camarones along with a coconut.
Bath day and wash day on the river.
Bath day and wash day on the river.
We are in our 6th state of Guerrero.
We are in our 6th state of Guerrero.