Category Archives: Kyrgyzstan

China our 22nd country Achieved!

Wednesday October 21, 2014 300 miles in 24 hours by bus

We left our hotel for a precarious ride to the bus station. We cycled our way through back unpaved roads and would up at the very crowded Sunday bazaar. From there Jocelyn kept telling me to follow as she navigated through the narrow stall alleys and eventually found our way across the river and to the bus station. This was an adventure in itself and was a precursor of what was to follow. Once at the station we prepared our bikes for the 7 pm departure on a Chinese sleeper bus. Finally at 9 pm we departed. This part of the world does not run on schedules. The bunks were somewhat comfortable but it felt like I was on a hospital gurney for 24 hours. The first stop was at 1 am where everyone ran out to pee. We reached the Kyrgyzstan border at 5 am. Since the border didn’t open until 9 we had a nice comfortable sleep onboard. We then got on the move and passed through 4 checkout posts.

Soon the first China customs checkpoint appeared and we were all required to exit the bus along with all our belongings including our bikes and all panniers. Everything except the bikes was sent through x-ray then all bags were searched. They took a real interest in our camera and computer and spent a lot of time going through picture files. The most interesting part was a British traveler that we met on the bus had a China map that included Taiwan. The Chinese border girl looked at Taiwan and said “NO!” At this she took out scissors and was going to cut Taiwan off the map but Alan convinced here not to. Instead she took a black marker and covered Taiwan! This was so funny because she was really serious. About 100 miles later we were at the official Customs and Immigration Station. So what did we do? We once again emptied the entire bus and went through another more detailed inspection. Plus the bus was sent through three large garages with different types of searching x-rays. This stop was 3 hours whereas the first was about half that. But at this 2nd one we finally received our passport entry stamps! From there it was another two hours to the first major city of Kashgar. The bus dropped everyone off in a dirt field. It was dark and the streets were very crowded with electric motorbikes that whizzed around us silently. We had many close calls as we navigated our way to a hostel, Kashgar Old Town Youth Hostel. Whenever we stay in larger cities we try to find and stay in the old town parts due to the architecture and history.

We had met a girl on the bus from Romania who is working in Beijing so the three of us went exploring and found a really cool outdoor food bazaar for dinner. The noodles and vegetables were wonderful. At this point we thought it was 8:30 pm and just today realized it was really 10:30 as all of China is on Beijing time. What a rude awakening it was when we woke up thinking it was 8 when it was really 10. Today we walked around trying to find train tickets for the desert ride to Urumqi. Even though we never did find where they are sold we had fun exploring our new country. It is fascinating and frustrating at the same time. We survived our first China day and are looking forward to new discoveries every day.

Working our way to the bus station was a bit precarious.
Working our way to the bus station was a bit precarious.
This bus station was almost complete when the Soviet Union dissolved in 1991. After that Kyrgyzstan placed a ticket booth in front. Nothing else has been completed or used.
This bus station was almost complete when the Soviet Union dissolved in 1991. After that Kyrgyzstan placed a ticket booth in front. Nothing else has been completed or used.
Snack station long abandoned. There was one bathroom that was used where people did their thing all over the floor. No cleaning or maintenance.
Snack station long abandoned. There was one bathroom that was used where people did their thing all over the floor. No cleaning or maintenance.

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Our chariot awaits.
Our chariot awaits.
A Chinese sleeper bus. It's like being on a hospital Gurney for 24 hours.
A Chinese sleeper bus. It’s like being on a hospital Gurney for 24 hours.
It was a fun ride even at night. The view from the top bunks was great.
It was a fun ride even at night. The view from the top bunks was great.
The Pamir Mountains from the Kyrgyzstan border with winter approaching.
The Pamir Mountains from the Kyrgyzstan border with winter approaching.

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Taken from the bus at the Kyrgyzstan border. Not a pleasant place to live.
Taken from the bus at the Kyrgyzstan border. Not a pleasant place to live.
The front of the bus. The road was a bit rough at times. Once at the China border bicycles are not allowed for the next 130 miles to Kashgar. So the bus was really the only way. We could have biked from Osh to the Kyrgyzstan border but then would have been required to find a ride to Kashgar.
The front of the bus. The road was a bit rough at times. Once at the China border bicycles are not allowed for the next 130 miles to Kashgar. So the bus was really the only way. We could have biked from Osh to the Kyrgyzstan border but then would have been required to find a ride to Kashgar.
A quick picture at the border as cameras were not allowed.
A quick picture at the border as cameras were not allowed.
Bus tickets - the old way.
Bus tickets – the old way.
We first met Yoshi from Japan in Istanbul last June and today at the Kashgar Hostel. After 6 years he is still riding around the world. I told him that he is pretty close to home now. His reply was another two years as he is heading south to Pakistan, India, and Nepal. It is so fun to meet up again with fellow cyclists.
We first met Yoshi from Japan in Istanbul last June and today at the Kashgar Hostel. After 6 years he is still riding around the world. I told him that he is pretty close to home now. His reply was another two years as he is heading south to Pakistan, India, and Nepal. It is so fun to meet up again with fellow cyclists.
All hats.
All hats.

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As a tourist I do touristy things! My first double hump camel ride. In Morocco the camels had a single hump.
As a tourist I do touristy things! My first double hump camel ride. In Morocco the camels had a single hump.
I think this camel is getting ready to spit at someone! Heavy drooling.
I think this camel is getting ready to spit at someone! Heavy drooling.

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We did see babies in baskets. This one was holding food.
We did see babies in baskets. This one was holding food.
The school across from our hostel.
The school across from our hostel.
Inside the courtyard. Bikes on the wall.
Inside the courtyard. Bikes on the wall.
Very common street cooking with all sorts of meats. Kind of scary seeing some of them.
Very common street cooking with all sorts of meats. Kind of scary seeing some of them.
The man himself - Mao.
The man himself – Mao.
The police seem to be everywhere waiting for something to happen. On the other side was a huge armored hummer and police holding guns and shields.
The police seem to be everywhere waiting for something to happen. On the other side was a huge armored hummer and police holding guns and shields.
Electric motorbikes everywhere.
Electric motorbikes everywhere.
Dinner - a crepe topped with an egg and vegetables. Delicious.
Dinner – a crepe topped with an egg and vegetables. Delicious.
I love watching craftsmen such as this gentleman.
I love watching craftsmen such as this gentleman.
Quite the artist hammering in the finishing touches.
Quite the artist hammering in the finishing touches.
Real craftsmanship.
Real craftsmanship.
Beautiful instruments.
Beautiful instruments.
A fine Chinese beer available at the hostel for $.90. The label says the water is from melted snow.
A fine Chinese beer available at the hostel for $.90. The label says the water is from melted snow.
Interesting from the Lonely Planet guide to China.
Interesting from the Lonely Planet guide to China.