Category Archives: Baja

Riding south down the Baja California Desert

Wednesday August 12, 2015, 224 miles (360 km) – Total so far: 10,229 miles (16,462 km)

Four days 224 miles After 8 days in Mexico and 4 days in the Baja California desert we have reached our midway point through the desert in the city of Guerrero Negro. It’s been a long hot and sometimes tedious ride as most of the terrain is like a roller coaster as in up and down. I guess one can call the terrain as big hills or small mountains. Occasionally we will drop down into a valley which will provide a few miles of somewhat flatness but definitely a welcome break. But soon the valley ends and the ups and downs continue. We ride hard because there are limited services as in none. No power either. Our warmshowers host in San Quintin Gabino gave us a list of Ranches/Cafes that have water and sometimes food available. That list was a real help as we were able to ration our water consumption. Fortunately most of the ranches were open, even though most look abandoned and closed. A few even had cold cervezas.

On the road we encountered our third “road angel”. The first was the gentleman who picked us up and drove us to Ensenada after the federales told us no bicycles were allowed on the toll road. Gabino was our second as he pulled over and invited us into his home in San Quintin. The third was a very kind and generous Mexican family who stopped and offered us water. Our 10 liter pouch was down to just a few bottles left when they pulled over as we were transferring water to our bottles. They were on their way to Cabo and gave us four bottles of water, two Gatorades, and a bag of apples and peaches. We gorged ourselves. I’ll keep saying that this trip is all about the people you meet. Their kindness and generosity is so uplifting when we are having difficult times. The heat has been in the 110 f range so water consumption is very important.

Some of the stealth camping has been difficult as we try and hide near sunset. It has all been done in fine dirt, sand, and lots of thorny plants, and farm animal poop. Last night while camping in the dirt with lots of animal poop around and not sleeping well with donkeys, dogs, and coyotes at it all night I asked myself if I can continue to do this for another year. But this morning while riding made it all okay again.

One question we have is where all the Mexicans get their money. We have rarely seen a bank and the two ATMs we have seen have block long lines. It seems strange that they must drive to different cities. There is lots of security in the few banks and ATMs. We were running very short on pesos but fortunately found a bank and ATM in Guerrero Negro. After 4 days in the desert we are in a hotel, washed our clothes in the shower (the old shower stomp) and set up a line outside our room for drying. That along with Tecate Light on ice makes life good!

We also feel safe as we have passed a few Mexican army inspection points and along with that we see army Humvees driving the road with a guy standing up with a machine gun. I guess they are keeping the road safe.

As I write this I tell Jocelyn that it is nice to just sit in a chair out of the sun. Her response was, “Yes, but it feels weird though”. We continue south tomorrow.

The start of our Baja Desert ride. We are in GRO Negro tonight.
The start of our Baja Desert ride. We are in GRO Negro tonight.
The beginning of our roller coaster ride.
The beginning of our roller coaster ride.
We love the desert.
We love the desert.
Great riding.
Great riding.

P1090579__1280x271_

After 5 hours of riding this day we came upon our first ranch - and there was ice cold beer! No power but real ice.
After 5 hours of riding this day we came upon our first ranch – and there was ice cold beer! No power but real ice.
We spent most of last year squatting in Asia. Toilets are a real treat.
We spent most of last year squatting in Asia. Toilets are a real treat.
Gas station in the desert!
Gas station in the desert!
There are many roadside memorials through the desert.
There are many roadside memorials through the desert.
The proprietor here asked where we were going. When we said Argentina he said, "That's a long f ing way!"
The proprietor here asked where we were going. When we said Argentina he said, “That’s a long f ing way!”

P1090600__1280x960_

P1090601__1280x256_

The magic of desert riding.
The magic of desert riding.

P1090610__1280x367_

P1090611__1280x741_

P1090614__1280x460_

P1090618__1280x799_

Guard dog!
Guard dog!
Baja California.
Baja California.
A real classic!
A real classic!

P1090624__1280x360_

P1090626__1280x881_

The cafe senorita saw how tired we were and offered us these outside beds for a nap. What a treat of a real siesta.
The cafe senorita saw how tired we were and offered us these outside beds for a nap. What a treat of a real siesta.
It was a "dog day afternoon". We took a nap here. One opened its eyes and that was it!
It was a “dog day afternoon”. We took a nap here. One opened its eyes and that was it!
I have never seen a hill of boulders. Interesting. How did it get this way?
I have never seen a hill of boulders. Interesting. How did it get this way?

P1090634__1280x520_

A Baja sunset.
A Baja sunset.
A Baja sunrise.
A Baja sunrise.
What a nice and generous family. They stopped and gave us water, Gatorade, and fruit! Road Angels!
What a nice and generous family. They stopped and gave us water, Gatorade, and fruit! Road Angels!
We found water in this town so Jocelyn decided to take a shower with what was left in our 10 liter bag.
We found water in this town so Jocelyn decided to take a shower with what was left in our 10 liter bag.
After about 150 miles riding south through the desert there was power.
After about 150 miles riding south through the desert there was power.
Not my favorite camping spot. Yes that is poop. It was all over.
Not my favorite camping spot. Yes that is poop. It was all over.
A tough night.
A tough night.
After a tough night camping we are enjoying a quesadilla with Tecate.
After a tough night camping we are enjoying a quesadilla with Tecate.
Michael and Marissa rode by us and asked, "Are you the father and daughter team?" After we said yes they said we are brother and sister. They are from Canada and on their way to Cabo.
Michael and Marissa rode by us and asked, “Are you the father and daughter team?” After we said yes they said we are brother and sister. They are from Canada and on their way to Cabo.
A favorite - tamales! Our tent is drying. What a tough job when we have to dry the tent. It usually takes two Tecate's!
A favorite – tamales! Our tent is drying. What a tough job when we have to dry the tent. It usually takes two Tecate’s!
Jocelyn holding the Mexican flag!
Jocelyn holding the Mexican flag!
We are now in Baja California Sur. Our goal is La Paz where we will take a ferry to Mazatlan.
We are now in Baja California Sur. Our goal is La Paz where we will take a ferry to Mazatlan.

Untitled