Monthly Archives: April 2016

Chile canyon riding

Thursday April 28, 2016, 165 miles (266 km) – Total so far: 16,479 miles (26,520 km)

April 28, 2016 After four days in Chile we have already noticed a huge difference between here and Peru – the drivers are very courteous and drive per traffic regulations. Plus there is no honking at each other all the time as in Peru. Chilean drivers actually respect pedestrians in sidewalks! What a great idea. Cars stop and wait for a person to cross unlike Peru where they appear to try and run you over. Even bus drivers are respectful and slow down or move over when we are cycling. We haven’t had so many good honks in months. And so far we have not seen the roadside dumps as in Peru. I told Jocelyn that it is like riding in a whole new country! At first we just stopped and stared as the drivers patiently waited for us. But Chile is also more expensive and seems to have a better infrastructure. Also the Spanish that we learned in Nicaragua has slowing been disappearing the further south we go. The last few days when talking with the locals they don’t seem to understand what we are saying so we must improvise somewhat. We are back in the land of the peso.

Southern Peru is full of canyons where you ride down one side and up the other. Northern Chile is the same way. The last two days we have cycled down and up numerous canyons with the deepest so far at 4,000 feet. We rode 10 miles to climb out of this one. The grade was at 7%, not difficult, but long. Fortunately once out of the canyons the riding in the high desert is fairly flat and the winds have actually been to our advantage for the first time in two months. Canyon riding is actually fun and the scenery spectacular. Yesterday we rode all day a little past sunset then pulled over, set up the tent and had a long sleep until 8am! The sunset is at 7:30 and rise is shortly before 8. Up to this point we have been getting up at 6 but now it is 8 with the sun. This is quite a change for us. We both feel much more comfortable camping here than we were in Peru. The sky is alive with stars. I haven’t had this astronomical view since my two winters in Antarctica. In fact, the Southern Cross was brilliant and staring at me! We tried with both our cameras to capture the brilliance but it didn’t work out. Today we stopped near the town of Pozo Almonte which is famous for the World Heritage Site (UNESCO) of Santiago Humberstone Saltpeter Mine. The mine was in operation from 1872-1960. It opened due to the demand of saltpeter in explosives which then found a use in agriculture. After the Germans perfected the production of saltpeter without the mining process the traditional way was abandoned. Since both Jocelyn and I enjoy history and “old stuff” we really enjoyed this. After spending a few hours touring this mine, an old ghost town, we decided to spend the night in Pozo Almonte.

Leaving Arica, Chile.
Leaving Arica, Chile.
Canyon riding, down one side and up the other.
Canyon riding, down one side and up the other.
Random statues in the Chilean desert.
Random statues in the Chilean desert.

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An elaborate roadside shrine.
An elaborate roadside shrine.
This concoction of corn and fermented peach was good.
This concoction of corn and fermented peach was good.
A long straight road.
A long straight road.
Riding down one side then up the other side towards the top middle of the picture. This one was a 10 mile ride up the other side.
Riding down one side then up the other side towards the top middle of the picture. This one was a 10 mile ride up the other side.
A nice fruit break.
A nice fruit break.
I like having two mirrors again.
I like having two mirrors again.
The deepest canyon we have ridden yet at 4,000 feet.
The deepest canyon we have ridden yet at 4,000 feet.
Sunrise at our roadside camp.
Sunrise at our roadside camp.
Early morning exercise. Where's waldo?
Early morning exercise. Where’s waldo?
This solar panel charges Jocelyn's phone in less than two hours.
This solar panel charges Jocelyn’s phone in less than two hours.
Since Mexico we have stopped in many desert restaurants, of which we have added our fatherdaughtercyclingadventures sticker - middle left.
Since Mexico we have stopped in many desert restaurants, of which we have added our fatherdaughtercyclingadventures sticker – middle left.
The remains of an old Chilean 1850's fort.
The remains of an old Chilean 1850’s fort.
Random desert bicycles.
Random desert bicycles.
A random desert tree.
A random desert tree.
A random desert car.
A random desert car.
A random desert shrine.
A random desert shrine.
Random desert geoglyphs. In my last post there was a picture of activities in Arica. One looked like dancing and I said that. It was actually a geoglyphs sign.
Random desert geoglyphs. In my last post there was a picture of activities in Arica. One looked like dancing and I said that. It was actually a geoglyphs sign.
Random desert ruins.
Random desert ruins.
A Chilean army base we cycled by.
A Chilean army base we cycled by.
An old ghost town. Fascinating. Named after an English engineer who perfected the saltpeter mining and production process here in Chile. His "shanking" process purified the saltpeter.
An old ghost town. Fascinating. Named after an English engineer who perfected the saltpeter mining and production process here in Chile. His “shanking” process purified the saltpeter.
This was a mine where families lived. Toys!
This was a mine where families lived. Toys!
Toy planes.
Toy planes.
Ovens.
Ovens.
Two diesels powered the entire town.
Two diesels powered the entire town.

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Family housing.
Family housing.

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One of many old trains.
One of many old trains.
The saltpeter production process.
The saltpeter production process.

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