Sunday November 9, 2014, 99 miles (159 km) – Total so far: 5,968 miles (9,605 km)
Sunday November 9, 2014 Two days 99 miles The day started misty again so we were bundled in our rain gear. This makes it hard because with all the climbing you work into a good sweat in all the coverings then during the downhill you get cold from being so wet inside. I decided to take the rain gear off as it wasn’t raining hard but then didn’t sweat as much. But I did get very cold as we climbed past 6,300 feet so I bundled up again. The scenery through this gorge is very beautiful as we pass many high waterfalls and small villages. They are always a hoot as it seems like they have never seen foreigners before so we wonder how many cyclists have come this way. The terrace farming is just amazing as they utilize even the steepest parts of the mountains.
Once again it was a very long day and it was time to find a place to sleep as it was getting dark. We talked with several people with our pocket translator and point-it book trying to find accommodations. We asked at one house where we could camp and the man looked shocked as he put his hands near his ears and growled. We understand that to mean there are bears here. Finally there was a group gathered at a store and we asked about a room and they all pointed up a steep hill. One of them made a phone call and a lady came down to meet us as she rents out rooms. So we locked our bicycles in the store and climbed up a very steep hill to find a decent room although the toilet is right next to the hog pen. Plus there are chickens, goats and sheep wandering around. It is very cold as there is no heating in any of the buildings we have been in yet.
We have a long road ahead of us to Kunming where we will attempt to get our Vietnam and Thailand visas. The Laos visa can be obtained at the border. Thailand will issue a 15 day visa at the border but that is not enough time so we must visit their consulate and Vietnam’s in the last major China city of Kunming.
Today it was raining again. We wonder if the sun ever comes out here. It was very cold and almost snowing. After reaching 7,000 feet the mud was flowing on the steep climb so we were not able to ride and started pushing the bikes. A truck came along and we got a ride up and over the top of 9,200 feet. We then continued our ride to the city of Ganlou in the hopes of finding a bus ride to Kunming as our time is running short. There were no buses going that way and what often happens is that someone who speaks English steps up to help. He found us a van and driver and we rode over another mountain range 30 miles and over 5 hours to the city of Xichang. From here we hope to find a bus tomorrow.