Category Archives: Tajikistan

The Majestic Pamir Mountains part 2

. Our World Tour Adventure ., Tajikistan

Thursday September 25, 2014

The next day Jocelyn was very sick but we continued cycling until a few miles down the road when she had to lie down. Soon a truck appeared and we were able to score a ride. This truck had a bed in it so Jocelyn rested. Thirty miles later it was the end of the road for the driver so we continued on our bikes to the town of Langar. We had heard from other cyclists the route up to Khargush Pass (4344 m) is very steep, sandy, and narrow and that there are taxis available to take backpackers and cyclists up towards the pass at various levels. It is a two day walk to push your bike up to the pass. We found a taxi who agreed to take us up to the military police border post where our Pamir Highway permit is checked as there are six checkpoint posts along the Pamir Highway. We obtained this permit in Dushanbe. Our driver drove us to the post which is within 3,000 feet of the pass. We arrived at night thinking that we would pitch our tent near the post but instead we were welcomed into the post’s two room building where we were warmly greeted by the police and property caretakers. This building does not have electricity and the heat was provided by a cow chip burning stove. They served us snacks, chai, and a delicious vegetable noodle soup. When we started yawning they set out mats and pillows in the adjoining room and said goodnight. As I often say this adventure is all about the people you meet. Who would have known that we would spend the night with the military police! They were all so friendly and curious about America.
The next morning we mostly pushed our bikes through the 14, 200 foot pass. It was a real struggle through the mostly rocky and sandy road and took several hours. Along the way we met some very friendly climbers, one from Florida. Jason also worked on the space program. We also talked with another Swiss cyclist Michael who is going our way and have met him other places. After the pass it was mostly a downhill but precarious ride until close to sunset when we set up camp.

The next day we finally met up with M41, The Pamir Highway, and once again were on a paved road. We continued on M41 through the small village of Alicar and had lunch with our Canadian cyclist friends that we met in Dushanbe. We then cycled out of town and set up camp on another chilly night. The days and nights are getting very cold and we are glad to have our Sierra Design -29C sleeping bags.

One of our all-time favorite rides was the following day as we rode the 65 miles to the town of Murgab. The mountain scenery was beautiful, the climbing easy, and the quiet road addicting. In the afternoon we arrived in Murgab and had a day’s rest in this cool town.

A tour of a 3rd century fort by our host's children.
A tour of a 3rd century fort by our host’s children.
The fortress walls.
The fortress walls.
Very organized Afghan farming.
Very organized Afghan farming.
A little hard to read but interesting.
A little hard to read but interesting.
Much of the walls are still standing in this front view.
Much of the walls are still standing in this front view.
Our homestay right next door to the fort.
Our homestay right next door to the fort.
Jocelyn showing our hosts our cycling videos.
Jocelyn showing our hosts our cycling videos.
A tough road to cycle.
A tough road to cycle.
Our friends at the military police outpost. Smoky from the cow chip burning. This picture reminds me of my winters in Antarctica.
Our friends at the military police outpost. Smoky from the cow chip burning. This picture reminds me of my winters in Antarctica.
Our beds for the night.
Our beds for the night.
Post on the left and checkpoint on the right.
Post on the left and checkpoint on the right.
Saying goodbye to our new friends.
Saying goodbye to our new friends.
It was a tough climb.
It was a tough climb.
Our Swiss cyclist friend Michael.
Our Swiss cyclist friend Michael.
A very cold selfie.
A very cold selfie.
Our highest climb to date. The total ascent has rolled over many times.
Our highest climb to date. The total ascent has rolled over many times.
Another wonderful lonely road to cycle.
Another wonderful lonely road to cycle.
Where's Waldo?
Where’s Waldo?
A South African and friends touring the Pamirs. They asked us if we had enough food and water. We did and I asked if they had beer. Yes!
A South African and friends touring the Pamirs. They asked us if we had enough food and water. We did and I asked if they had beer. Yes!

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Another fine camp.
Another fine camp.
We meet up with the Pamir Highway, M41. After six days on unpaved roads in the Wakhan Valley this paved road was wonderful.
We meet up with the Pamir Highway, M41. After six days on unpaved roads in the Wakhan Valley this paved road was wonderful.
Jocelyn with her gang.
Jocelyn with her gang.
Our Canadian friends Virginia and Nick. Virginia flagged us down as we were cycling past their homestay. We stopped and had lunch.
Our Canadian friends Virginia and Nick. Virginia flagged us down as we were cycling past their homestay. We stopped and had lunch.
The camels from the ancient Silk Road days have been replaced by these Chinese trucks delivering goods to Dushanbe, Tajikistan. We have been following the Silk Road for several months now. These trucks return to China empty.
The camels from the ancient Silk Road days have been replaced by these Chinese trucks delivering goods to Dushanbe, Tajikistan. We have been following the Silk Road for several months now. These trucks return to China empty.
Our cycle posse that guided us around the village of Alicar. We gave them each one of our FatherDaughterCyclingAventures contacts cards. They were very pleased and readily understod internet and blogs.
Our cycle posse that guided us around the village of Alicar. We gave them each one of our FatherDaughterCyclingAventures contacts cards. They were very pleased and readily understod internet and blogs.
A generator. None of the towns have power as there are many power poles on the ground along the entire route.
A generator. None of the towns have power as there are many power poles on the ground along the entire route.
Miles from nowhere.
Miles from nowhere.
Another quiet night.
Another quiet night.
An incredible ride. We thought we were on another planet. There were no trees but small vegetation.
An incredible ride. We thought we were on another planet. There were no trees but small vegetation.
Where's Waldo?
Where’s Waldo?
It is getting very cold with nights in the 20's.
It is getting very cold with nights in the 20’s.
This ride was so quiet and peaceful. Many power poles were down so none of the villages had power and probably never will. 80% of the Tajiks are below poverty level. It seems like this area is the "forgotten" part of Central Asia.
This ride was so quiet and peaceful. Many power poles were down so none of the villages had power and probably never will. 80% of the Tajiks are below poverty level. It seems like this area is the “forgotten” part of Central Asia.
The mountain and rock formations of the Pamirs are stunning along the lonely winding roads.
The mountain and rock formations of the Pamirs are stunning along the lonely winding roads.
Murgab was the largest town along the Pamir Highway. It looks like an old Alaska town. We spent two nights in the Pamir Hotel. Again there was no power here but a generator that was run a few hours a day. The next morning it was snowing.
Murgab was the largest town along the Pamir Highway. It looks like an old Alaska town. We spent two nights in the Pamir Hotel. Again there was no power here but a generator that was run a few hours a day. The next morning it was snowing.