A good pace for our Iran tour

. Our World Tour Adventure ., Iran

Wednesday August 13, 2014, 170 miles (274 km) – Total so far: 4,611 miles (7,421 km)

Wednesday August 13, 2014 3 days, 170 miles We are off to a good start for our cross country journey of Iran. The goal of this ride is to cross the entire country and explore points of interest. In order to do this in the allotted 28 days we want to cycle at least 50 – 70 miles per day. To cover the rest of the distance including places to stay and sight-seeing we load our bikes onto a vehicle and drive. These 28 days includes 18 nights of camping and the rest in hotels. After our stay in Tabriz we elected to explore in and around the city so we took the day off to play tourist. The most interesting part of the day was exploring the prehistoric cave village of Kandovan. There are about 100 people that still live here in the volcanic rocks that have been dug out for homes. That night we drove to a river gorge for one of our best nights camping yet.

The next three riding days were challenging but fun. The temperature has been in the triple digits since we arrived and the hills are steep like Spain. And of course the headwinds add to the challenge and we always seem to be going the “wrong” way. I apologize if these updates appear short but after riding several days and then the occasional hotel like tonight’s stay in Zanjan I just get so tired but I do want to share this wonderful experience.

Iran’s countryside is very similar to Morocco but the people a lot more friendly and generous. We are always being invited for chai and if we stopped at every offer we would still be near our start. When we do accept the offer it usually involves chai, food, and fruit with the families gathered along the roadside picnic for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

As an example of the kindness and generosity of the Iranian people, after cleaning up I set out from the hotel to find a market for cold drinks. The hotel is in an area for car repair shops and after walking up and down the block I could not find a market. A gentleman appeared from a shop and said the greeting “Salam”. I replied and said “market?” He pointed the way so I took off. After another long walk I couldn’t find anything so resigned myself back to the hotel. As I turned around the kind gentleman was on the street with his truck and motioned for me to get in. I did and he drove to the market, helped me select the items, made sure I paid correctly then drove me back to the hotel. It was all done with a big smile and his hand touching his chest (heart). Not a word of English except for the international word “market”.

Two days ago was my 35th wedding anniversary and the 3rd in a row that I have missed my wife. The last two I was wintering-over in Antarctica and this one cycling in Iran. I am very lucky to have such a wonderful wife, Andrea, as I have only been home 5 months of the last 36.

I still can’t get the mapping function to work on this site.

Bronze soldiers in Tabriz.
Bronze soldiers in Tabriz.
Kandovan cave village.
Kandovan cave village.
Dwellings are dug out from the volcanic rock since prehistoric times.
Dwellings are dug out from the volcanic rock since prehistoric times.

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A fine camping spot in a gorge with many springs.
A fine camping spot in a gorge with many springs.

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Where's Waldo?
Where’s Waldo?

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We stayed in a family's home in the village of Istisou which means "hot water". We visited a bath house that had a hot mineral water pool. All the guys came over to me as they had never seen an American. Jocelyn was next door in the women's pool making several friends that were fascinated with her tattoos.
We stayed in a family’s home in the village of Istisou which means “hot water”. We visited a bath house that had a hot mineral water pool. All the guys came over to me as they had never seen an American. Jocelyn was next door in the women’s pool making several friends that were fascinated with her tattoos.
Jocelyn with new friends...one a little shy.
Jocelyn with new friends…one a little shy.
Our host along with one of his sons and daughters as they delivered our dinner.
Our host along with one of his sons and daughters as they delivered our dinner.
Barley and vegetable soup. Along with yogurt and bread.
Barley and vegetable soup. Along with yogurt and bread.
A fine home. At night the sleeping pads and pillows are passed around and the entire family sleeps in the one room.
A fine home. At night the sleeping pads and pillows are passed around and the entire family sleeps in the one room.
The bathroom.
The bathroom.
A real classic.
A real classic.
Our hostess and the bath house in the background.
Our hostess and the bath house in the background.

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Eroded by time.
Eroded by time.
We have passed dozens of villages like this. Only one has had a tiny market. Supplies are few and far between.
We have passed dozens of villages like this. Only one has had a tiny market. Supplies are few and far between.

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Colorful hills.
Colorful hills.
Hot and dry.
Hot and dry.

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A first for us - yellow watermelon. Delicious and juicy.
A first for us – yellow watermelon. Delicious and juicy.

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Jocelyn's new friends.
Jocelyn’s new friends.
My new friends. The gentleman on the right teaches English in a local high school.
My new friends. The gentleman on the right teaches English in a local high school.
What a wonderful and kind family. Families gather like this and picnic.
What a wonderful and kind family. Families gather like this and picnic.
Our camping spot for the night...
Our camping spot for the night…
...under a 400 year old bridge. We are in the space to the far left.
…under a 400 year old bridge. We are in the space to the far left.
On the road.
On the road.
A typical fruit stand with a public fountain. People gather to fill their containers and picnic.
A typical fruit stand with a public fountain. People gather to fill their containers and picnic.
Today's lunch spot. The owner was tending his fields across the street and came over and offered us tomatoes, cucumbers, and melons.
Today’s lunch spot. The owner was tending his fields across the street and came over and offered us tomatoes, cucumbers, and melons.
Afshin and Ehsan took turns riding Jocelyn's bike. We all had a blast.
Afshin and Ehsan took turns riding Jocelyn’s bike. We all had a blast.
We ate KFC tonight. What a treat!
We ate KFC tonight. What a treat!

3 thoughts on “A good pace for our Iran tour”

  2. AHHH honey! You are a big softie and I don’t mind getting a lot of praise…..I do miss you and the income you generated for all those years. No worries, I keep finding ways to pay the bills! You would be amazed!
    These past few days have been difficult to ride, but beautiful to see how you share a meal, chai, smiles, and rest with some very kind people. I know that we have the comforts of a home and hot water, something few of these places have shared with you. Thank you for taking the time after your grueling bike rides to share these pictures of the world as you see it from a bike!
    AND finally, we hosted our first cyclist from Seattle, Jurek, last night. He slept in his tent like a hammock, in your favorite spot under the Magnolia tree. It was very humid and warm, so he admitted that his sleep was interrupted by noises and sweating. You two never complain and he didn’t either! I guess the part about taking a car ride is good, as I drove him across the 528 bridge to head west to KSC visitor center today. Whew, that is enough news from me here! Love always, Andee

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