Friday March 11, 2016, 249 miles (401 km) – Total so far: 15,183 miles (24,435 km)

March 7, 2016 We spent one more night in San Ignacio because we were so tired. Our first hotel “Grand Hotel” we bailed after 2 hours because the water never came on. We moved to the hospedaje up the street but that was so noisy and tiny that the next day we found another hospedaje that was much more open and comfortable.

Unfortunately the location of this one proved very uncomfortable. At about midnight the local discos lit up with loud music then at 2am the chicken killing began. We had noticed earlier that the building across the street from our window was full of chickens. But it was no big thing until 2am when two women arrived to kill them all. At that time I heard what appeared to be a small child crying but it was chicken after chicken being killed by what it sounded like a dunking in scalding water. The chickens actually cried and I have never heard that noise before. Each one lasted about 3 seconds before succumbing and all the others cried with them. It was really an inhumane treatment of chickens. I know we all eat them but it really kept me awake all night and I don’t know if I can eat another chicken. I was up for hours hearing them cry even though I wore ear plugs. Then the awful smell began of dead chickens. Fortunately it started raining hard around 3am and that took most of the smell away. I took video of this just for the crying sound. I have been a vegetarian before and want to go back. But I love chicken wings. This was a real game changer.

We left San Ignacio today in the rain. We waited for it to stop but it never did. Our goal for the day was Jaen and we accomplished that because the trip was along a river. We haven’t had such a flat route for months. We arrived in Jaen near dark, found a nice hotel, and ate vegetarian Chinese across the street. We have had enough of the rain so we will bus to the coast of Peru tomorrow and see what adventure awaits us there. The last two months soaked in the rain every day is hard. We do realize it is the rainy season but we want to dry out for a while. And I am tired of all the climbing through this year and last. It seems like since Mexico it has been all hills or mountains. Jocelyn loves climbing mountains but I could use a break. I am almost 63 – not old but tired. When all is said and done I am having a tough time while Jocelyn just cruises. That is why we are riding our bicycles around the world now – while I have the physical capability. This is a tough sport. Jocelyn has been my wingman for 5 years now and I would not be here without her. At the end of the year I will continue traveling the world with my wife Andee, without my bike. Once again we couldn’t be doing this without her taking care of business on the home end. Times can be tough on the road but I know there is a home waiting for my return. So far in Peru we have found very friendly people but the country very lacking in services of all kinds which is fine with us but web site updates are questionable. There does not appear to be any kind of traffic laws as the drivers are everywhere and anywhere on the roads passing on shoulders sometimes three at a time. There is absolutely no respect for pedestrians and you take your life in your hands when attempting to cross the street. So far in our trip the Croatian drivers have been the worst. The Peruvians are right up there with Azerbaijan not far behind.

March 9, 2016 Yesterday we walked to a bus station in Jaen to check about a bus ride to Chiclayo on the Peruvian coast. All four of the bus lines here were not operating on that route due to the heavy rain and rock slides over the Andes. We were told, “No pass to Chiclayo.” They then told us that another station may have a bus driving that route. We jumped into another mototaxi to the other station of which there were eight bus companies. We went to one after another hearing “No pass” until the eight one said “Si.” That bus was scheduled to leave at 10am, in 40 minutes, so we rushed back to the hotel, loaded the bikes, and got back to the station. At 10:15 when the bus had not yet arrived we were told 10:30. At that time we were told 11 then 11:30. Well, at noon it did arrive and we loaded our bikes and gear which is an adventure of jumping through hoops to get it done without damaging the bikes. Fortunately we have only done this a few times. We settled into our seats for the long 180 mile seven hour ride to the coast. Then it hit me. None of the other bus companies were taking a chance on this trip except this one we were on. But if you look at the bus company name, “Towes Angel Divine” then it all makes sense. Of course we will get though safely! As it was we had short stops while waiting to pass one lane areas that were covered in rocks. The rain did get very hard through the pass but we made it safely. We arrived after dark and through Jocelyn’s excellent navigating she routed us to an area of many hostels where we settled in for the night. Today we traveled through a coastal desert in the wonderful blue sky and heat for most of the day before finding another hostel in the late afternoon. We had lots of clothes to sink wash and the rooftop had clothes lines for drying. This area has been notorious for touring cyclists’ robberies. We keep to the main road meaning we are back on the Pan-American Highway and find a place well before dark.

March 10, 2016 We got an early start as we knew we were in for a long desert crossing. It turned out to be about 45 miles in 100 F heat and we almost ran out of water even though we were well stocked before leaving the last town. We were also short on food and munched on walnuts through the ride. Once we were across we stopped at the first market for a warm PowerAde and beer. It is difficult to find cold drinks even though there are large unpowered coolers everywhere. Peru is a very poor country and power lacking. Continuing down the road we passed a fruit stand and scarfed down a watermelon then continued to the first restaurant for a delicious broccoli tortilla. We finally left there at 6 and cycled to the next town that had a hostel. It was a long tough day.

March 11, 2016 We continued south then arrived at the beach with our goal being the town of Huanchaco, Peru. Once at the beach we had a fish lunch then continued along the beach through the rocky and sandy road. It took us all day to reach a popular tourist beach of Huanchaco where we met two touring cyclists from England. We continued south to find a nice quiet hostel to maybe spend an extra day. The surf looks really good and we may try that in the morning. A funny story – last night, I can’t remember the town’s name, I went in search for two cold beers which turned out to be quite the challenge. I did find two then returned to our hostel and relaxed with two beers after a challenging day in the desert. Then Jocelyn and I decided to search for ice cream. The beer bottles are returnable here so I took them back to the bar where purchased from this huge guy that looked almost Samoan. Upon my return he looked at me and asked where I was from. When I replied Estados Unidos (U.S.) he closed his eyes and really concentrated for several moments while his three little kids hung onto him. He finally opened his eyes and blurted out, “Why are you here?” It took so much concentration to say those 4 English words. His kids looked up at him and wondered what he said. I answered in Spanish and he was so relieved. What a nice guy. Sometimes it is so hard and painful to communicate.