Category Archives: Serbia

Exploring Serbia one bike shop at a time

Friday May 9, 2014, 57 miles (92 km) – Total so far: 2,596 miles (4,178 km)

May 8, 2014 37 miles For the past few weeks there has been a clank along with creaks once every revolution of the crank arm. I finally had time to research the issue which pointed to a loose crank arm or bottom bracket. While riding out of town we spotted a bicycle shop and decided to let them look at it as I didn’t have the tools. During the disassembly nothing was noted as being loose so the tech installed a new bottom bracket. I am happy to say that this solved the problem – once again peace and quiet. So far on my new bike the rear rim and the bottom bracket have failed.

We continued riding until Jocelyn said that now her bike was jerking to a stop when using the rear brakes. I rode it to confirm that it was the same problem as my bike had – the rim must have a problem and many of the spokes were loose. We stopped at the next major town, Kosovska and decided to stay there for the night and try to find another bike shop. At the hotel a couple said they would take us along with the rear wheel to the local shop. The “Bike Doctor” tightened and balanced the wheel free of charge. Once again the locals have been very kind.

May 9, 2014 20 miles The following morning there was still a jerking motion while using the rear brake so we rode to the Bike Doctor to investigate. After much time investigating the problem he replaced the rear brakes with V-brakes and that seemed to alleviate the issue. At that point we wanted to be at a warmshowers host in the town of Zajecar but at 2pm we were about 60 miles away as we had spent a lot of time with the very generous Bike Doctor, Dragan, meeting many of the very friendly townspeople who stopped by. His shop reminded me of my father’s auto garage in Oxnard, California. He spent his life working in his mechanic shop during which time many people stopped by daily with car problems or to just say hi. After coffee, tea, cookies, and some fine Serbian brandy the time just flew by so we had a late start to our next warmshowers’ host. We found a ride with Dragan’s neighbor who drove us about 40 miles where we unloaded our bikes and continued cycling. About a mile out of Zajecar we found our host’s farm on which Victor, his wife and daughter live in a very modern and ecologically built California ranch house with a beautiful view. They warmly welcomed us to their farm and invited us to stay in the home’s loft. Victor has done much touring and visiting of places all around the world so we stayed up late after a fine meal and talked about our upcoming route through “the old country”.

May 10, 2014 Victor’s farm is only two miles from the Bulgarian border. Today and Sunday there are car races that start from his turnoff then up the road. Because of this the road will be closed. He knew the owner of the local bike shop and suggested that Jocelyn’s wheel be checked because from now on there will be very few shops along the way. He also had planned to spend the day working on a friend’s ranch. We drove the Surly down into town before the road closed and went along with him to help out his friend who was installing fencing. It was a real hoot to join in this endeavor along with several others as we really enjoy being with the locals. The work was all day, with many pivo (beer) breaks, and very exhausting as Jocelyn and I shaved timbers for posts and set them. After a long day a huge barbeque was set aflame and a great meal enjoyed with more wine, pivo, and brandy. The road finally opened late afternoon and we drove to town to pick up the Surly. This border road was closed all day which we thought very strange but Victor said it is “The Serbian way”!

This was a second failure of our Mavic XM719 rims and the inside cracks were very apparent. The mechanic said that the failure was due to weight. I had researched these rims extensively but can now say they are not good for touring with heavy loads. We have seen and talked with many cycling tourists with far greater loads than ours. The good news was the rim was replaced but the bad news is that it was replaced with another Mavic XM719 as it was the “best” rim the shop had in stock. Along with that the front brakes were replaced with v-brakes. If you are counting we have been in Serbia for four days and have visited four bike shops! We have had a great time in Serbia and consider this country one of our highlights and will miss the people. Tomorrow Bulgaria!

Removed the crank arm and chainwheel. All was tight.
Removed the crank arm and chainwheel. All was tight.
Suspected defective bottom bracket was replaced. Noise stopped.
Suspected defective bottom bracket was replaced. Noise stopped.
Another fine Serbian bicycle shop.
Another fine Serbian bicycle shop.
A very fine bicycle mechanic.
A very fine bicycle mechanic.
The translator doesn't work with cyrillic.
The translator doesn’t work with cyrillic.
We typed in what we wanted and showed it to the waiter.
We typed in what we wanted and showed it to the waiter.
Watching the traffic as we wait for lunch.
Watching the traffic as we wait for lunch.
For some reason we received two hamburger patties instead of chicken.
For some reason we received two hamburger patties instead of chicken.
Local grass control.
Local grass control.
Next to our hotel was a hospital...
Next to our hotel was a hospital…
And next to that were at least 7 stores that sold caskets and flowers.
And next to that were at least 7 stores that sold caskets and flowers.
We called the street death row.
We called the street death row.
These stores are manned 24 hours a day.
These stores are manned 24 hours a day.
For some reason when we turn in empties the clerk gives us refills. We bought 3 bottles of beer last night after the Bike Doctor visit. The clerk wanted the empties back so Jocelyn is returning them here. The clerk gave Jocelyn 3 more bottles. When Jocelyn said no she tried to give her one. Confused the clerk walked away. Jocelyn gave the empties to a nearby trash digger who immediately turned them in for 3 full beers!
For some reason when we turn in empties the clerk gives us refills. We bought 3 bottles of beer last night after the Bike Doctor visit. The clerk wanted the empties back so Jocelyn is returning them here. The clerk gave Jocelyn 3 more bottles. When Jocelyn said no she tried to give her one. Confused the clerk walked away. Jocelyn gave the empties to a nearby trash digger who immediately turned them in for 3 full beers!
The Bike Doctor at work on Jocelyn's Surly.
The Bike Doctor at work on Jocelyn’s Surly.
Jocelyn rearranging her panniers to get some weight of the rear.
Jocelyn rearranging her panniers to get some weight of the rear.
The Bike Doctor and his neighbor. What friendly people!
The Bike Doctor and his neighbor. What friendly people!
While Joceluyn is drinking coffee with the neighbor Dragan and I are drinking fine Serbian brandy.
While Joceluyn is drinking coffee with the neighbor Dragan and I are drinking fine Serbian brandy.
Are we in India?
Are we in India?
Rush hour.
Rush hour.
They do not look pleased that I took their picture.
They do not look pleased that I took their picture.
Boris gave us a lift towards our next warmshowers host.
Boris gave us a lift towards our next warmshowers host.
Beautiful country.
Beautiful country.

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Finding our way to Victor's farm.
Finding our way to Victor’s farm.
Another new friend.
Another new friend.
A Serbian sunset from the farm.
A Serbian sunset from the farm.
Beautiful California style home.
Beautiful California style home.
A fine bottle tree.
A fine bottle tree.
The view from the loft.
The view from the loft.
Getting ready to work the "Serbian Way". Drink shots and talk about what needs to be done. This is 9 am.
Getting ready to work the “Serbian Way”. Drink shots and talk about what needs to be done. This is 9 am.
After shots comes breakfast food and pivo. Then more talking about the job.
After shots comes breakfast food and pivo. Then more talking about the job.
We finally start. Scraping the bark off of fence posts. My Serbian supervisor to the left.
We finally start. Scraping the bark off of fence posts. My Serbian supervisor to the left.
Interesting beetle.
Interesting beetle.
Setting the posts. We kept hearing about how hard the Americanas work.
Setting the posts. We kept hearing about how hard the Americanas work.
Come on Jocelyn...just one log.
Come on Jocelyn…just one log.
That's better. This is what cycle tourists do on their cycling day off.
That’s better. This is what cycle tourists do on their cycling day off.
A fine Serbian barbecue to end the work day. So delicious!
A fine Serbian barbecue to end the work day. So delicious!
Jocelyn's rear Mavic XM719 rim after 2500 miles. There were 13 cracks around the spoke holes. Mine that was replaced in Montenegro had many cracks too.
Jocelyn’s rear Mavic XM719 rim after 2500 miles. There were 13 cracks around the spoke holes. Mine that was replaced in Montenegro had many cracks too.
Two days 57 miles.
Two days 57 miles.