From the desert to the sea and back to the desert

Thursday May 12, 2016, 128 miles (206 km) – Total so far: 17,188 miles (27,661 km)

May 11, 2016 We continued south from Chanaral along the rocky coastline for a nice scenery change. There are many small beach towns that are empty because of the offseason. Summer here starts in December and runs until March so it was pretty much deserted. The following two nights we spent camping on beaches. It is so nice to fall asleep while listening to the waves break on the beach. With the high nearby mountains, we don’t see the sun until after 8:30 so it is hard to get an early start. But it really doesn’t matter as long as we can pull over somewhere before dark to set up camp. Yesterday we rode into the small town of Bahia Inglesa (Church Bay) with a beautiful beach. Since our route was taking us inland again we decided to spend the night here in a bungalow complete with two rooms and a kitchen. We went to the local super Mercado and bought lots of fruit and other stuff. Most of the other accommodations were closed for the winter so this was ours at a cheap price. There were a few restaurants open and we had delicious local seafood. I opted for the abalone which I haven’t had in over 25 years. While growing up in Oxnard, California I used to dive and pry abalone off the coastal rocks and islands and my mom would cook up delicious abalone meals. Abalone is all but gone in California now but plentiful here. What a treat it was to experience this again and reminisce old times at home with mom and dad.

This morning was perfect weather, not like the cloudy cold days we have had. We ate cereal, cold milk and lots of fruit. We decided to stay another day and hang out at the beach. Unfortunately, all the kayak rental places were closed. After a delicious lunch of seafood chowder, we went to the market again for our dinner of burritos. Back on the desert inland road tomorrow.

May 12, 2016 After two nights in a bungalow it seemed like we had moved in as our stuff was scattered everywhere, hence once again a late start at 11. We are working our way inland again due to the lack of a coastal road. About half way to our destination of Copiapo I heard a faint “Hola, Hola” and turned to see a cyclist headed the other way. We immediately stopped and met Sean Kane from Ireland. The funny thing is that he has been following us on crazyguyonabike.com and was sure he would run into us as he heads north and he did! We swapped “tales from the road”. He flew to Buenos Aires biked to Ushuaia and is headed north to Brazil. You can follow him and his very extensive journal at:

https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?doc_id=16943

We did arrive in the large city of Copiapo, found a cheap hotel, and a huge mall that baffled us. We ate at the food court which included a pitcher of draft beer surprisingly, then went across the street to a Chilean Walmart called Lider, bought some snacks and settled down into our room. Another great day!

Leaving Chanaral, Chile.
Leaving Chanaral, Chile.

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Seals.
Seals.
A large memorial.
A large memorial.
A fine name for a beach.
A fine name for a beach.

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A beautiful coastal ride.
A beautiful coastal ride.

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A fine camp site.
A fine camp site.
Chilean sunsets are the best.
Chilean sunsets are the best.
All the beach towns on the coast are closed until summer, December to March.
All the beach towns on the coast are closed until summer, December to March.
Another fine sunset from Bahia Inglesa.
Another fine sunset from Bahia Inglesa.
I haven't had abalone in over 25 years. It is plentiful here.
I haven’t had abalone in over 25 years. It is plentiful here.
Jocelyn making new friends.
Jocelyn making new friends.
Bahia Inglesa (Church Bay)
Bahia Inglesa (Church Bay)
A mermaid by the sea.
A mermaid by the sea.

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Dogs on the beach.
Dogs on the beach.
A very small fishing village.
A very small fishing village.
The small fishing village of Bahia Inglesa.
The small fishing village of Bahia Inglesa.
A delicious seafood chowder with scallops, abalone, squid, octopus, mussels, two kinds of fish and veggies. Our best since Spain.
A delicious seafood chowder with scallops, abalone, squid, octopus, mussels, two kinds of fish and veggies. Our best since Spain.
We made burritos!
We made burritos!
Riding back into the desert.
Riding back into the desert.
A last look at Bahia Inglesa.
A last look at Bahia Inglesa.

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What - no bicycles allowed!
What – no bicycles allowed!

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Back on the Pan American Highway.
Back on the Pan American Highway.
We met Sean Kane from Ireland. Sean is headed north.   https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?doc_id=16943
We met Sean Kane from Ireland. Sean is headed north.
https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?doc_id=16943
A power lunch of beer and Cheetos.
A power lunch of beer and Cheetos.
A beautiful statue in Copiapo.
A beautiful statue in Copiapo.
Dedicated to the rescued 33 Chilean miners from Copiapo, Chile in 2010.
Dedicated to the rescued 33 Chilean miners from Copiapo, Chile in 2010.
A beautiful night statue.
A beautiful night statue.

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4 thoughts on “From the desert to the sea and back to the desert

  1. Every inch south, it gets a bit colder. It looks warm because we are in the desert. But, we shall be out of the desert soon enough. Though we hear it won’t be as green as we have thought because it actually is Autumn. How odd to think. I(Joce) really enjoyed the Abalone, in Chile they call them “Locos” haha. They serve them with a salsa and a mayonnaise. It’s way better than scallops. Anyways, thank you for constantly showing us love and appreciation as we know having us away is very hard for you and for us. The cool nights might follow you into the coast of California and we shall be there soon enough to have some much needed laughs and good times. We always miss you but love you more.

  2. Thanks Esther. We are sitting in a hostel cafe, Vallenar, Chile and I just shared your message with Jocelyn. She said she is so sorry she couldn’t hang out with you as she was getting her hair done. We are still going strong. Mike

  3. You two look so alone because it being off season. Beautiful scapes along the shore.
    The variety of seafood looked SO yummy. Mermaid (Jocelyn) by the sea was the best picture! Sculpture honoring the Chilean miners very moving. I enjoy carrying the
    Bolivian ? purse you gave me. John has worn his knit cap, once, in the house. 🙂 Thanks
    for your gifts. Safe cycling, Esther, Nansea, Aja

  4. Beautiful statue, and lovely beach places. This part of the journey is refreshing as I know it is cooler, but the environment looks warm! The food choices are so diverse and I really can’t remember the abalone taste memory that you shared in Calif. I do like the conch we had in the Bahamas! Thank you for showing us another side of this Pan Am Hwy. I know that the cooler nights allow you to sleep and wake up refreshed! I am still enjoying some cool nights in Florida, but the days are heating up. Take care and ride safely! Love always, andee

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