Once again we are riding Ruta 5 and this time the Andes are in sight directly east of us

Friday June 3, 2016, 258 miles (415 km) – Total so far: 18,234 miles (29,345 km)

Total combined miles 21,983 (35,378 km)

May 30, 2016 This morning Jocelyn’s wrists and one knee were very swollen, plus there was a large contusion on her right leg. We decided to take a break day as cycling all day with swollen wrists would not be good. Fortunately, there didn’t appear to be any breaks. We were riding on a straight flat bike path when she fell after running over a 2-liter water bottle that bounced loose and onto the ground. There wasn’t any speed involved. Two cars that saw the fall did stop and offer assistance but once Jocelyn was off the ground I thanked them and they left. Once again I can’t say enough good things about the Chilean people.

We found a hotel in the next village of Malloa. I say village because that is how small it is. The hotel is on the Plaza de Armas with the church across the street and a restaurant and market on the other side. All towns and cities have a “Plaza de Armas” which is the main square.

From Wikipedia:

The Plaza de Armas (literally Weapons Square, but better translated as Parade Square or parade ground) is the name for the main square in many Hispanic American cities. Most cities constructed by the Spanish conquistadores were designed in a standard military fashion, based on a grid pattern taken from the Roman castrum, of which one of the blocks would be left vacant to form the Plaza de Armas. It is often surrounded by governmental buildings, churches, and other structures of cultural or political significance. The name derives from the fact that this would be a refuge in case of an attack upon the city, from which arms would be supplied to the defenders.

We have visited and stayed near many Plazas de Armas’ and Malloa has the smallest one yet. As usual we are the only ones staying here. In fact, there is only a caretaker and no staff present. This hotel appears to be an old mission or church building, very large and beautiful with high ceilings. It is cold but there are two radiator heaters in our room and lots of hot water. Jocelyn took a bath today which is a very unusual event. Yesterday when we arrived we spread out our tent (it rained during our camp the previous night) and the sink washed clothes throughout the room. This shows you how large the room is even with both bicycles inside. Today we rested, napped, and cooked up a delicious veggie lunch and dinner. We also enjoyed playing with the two resident doggies. It was a hoot watching them chase the local geese across the property. Tomorrow we will be back on our bikes headed to Puerto Mannt. Today started out very foggy but in a few hours that lifted and the sun shined bright. We had been told that central to southern Chile south of Santiago is mostly flat as the road winds its way just west of the Andes and east of the coastal hills. We were pleasantly surprised to find this true. We entered Chile a little over a month ago and have been riding up and down large canyons and gorges along with small to very large hills (when does a hill become a mountain?) with many long slow climbs. This is definitely a treat even if it only lasts one day. In fact, this is our first over 100km day in many weeks. Jocelyn is doing much better today after resting her swollen wrists and knee from her fall. Unfortunately, though my right knee is very painful after using that leg to brace myself through an oil slick a few days ago.

June 3, 2016 We continued south through a mostly flat region. Today the hills started again. The weather continues to be overcast and foggy all day and we rarely get above 40f. Yesterday we had the highest road kill of dogs on our entire trip as we passed by seven – very sad.

Today we left the main road to explore Saltas Del Laja.

From Wikipedia:

The Laja Falls (Spanish: Salto del Laja) is a waterfall located in the Laja River in southcentral Chile. It lies next to the old Pan-American Highway, between the cities of Los Ángeles and Chillán. Below the falls Laja River has formed a narrow canyon. Laja Falls consist of four horseshoe shaped falls - one on each arm of Laja River. The tallest (35 m) is the easternmost fall, but the western falls are 20 m tall. Total width of all four falls - approximately 455 m.

The waterfall is beautiful and we found a hotel overlooking this very wide waterfall. I consider myself the king of finding cheap rooms. And since it is offseason another cheap room was available with a little bit of negotiation since there are so many rooms available. There is also camping but it is so cold and wet. A room with a heater is much more comfortable to me.

Still beautiful through the mist.
Still beautiful through the mist.
Old pinball games.
Old pinball games.
Another beautiful sunset.
Another beautiful sunset.

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Even though we sometimes find a room we still enjoy our own cooking.
Even though we sometimes find a room we still enjoy our own cooking.

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Watching "Wild Tuna".
Watching “Wild Tuna”.
Chile is the first country south of the border that required our power converter.
Chile is the first country south of the border that required our power converter.
This one has worked around the world.
This one has worked around the world.

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Two very fine Chilean beers.
Two very fine Chilean beers.

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Another cold start.
Another cold start.
The beautiful Andes appear. We heard that all passes to Argentina south of Santiago are now closed for the winter.
The beautiful Andes appear. We heard that all passes to Argentina south of Santiago are now closed for the winter.
Another beautiful sunset as we look for a place to stay.
Another beautiful sunset as we look for a place to stay.
It was rather a tight fit. we each got a room for $10.
It was rather a tight fit. we each got a room for $10.
Full cold weather gear.
Full cold weather gear.
Watering cut logs. I guess to keep from drying out.
Watering cut logs. I guess to keep from drying out.
This part of Chile is really big into forestry.
This part of Chile is really big into forestry.
Waterfall Park.
Waterfall Park.
Salto del Laja (Laja Falls)
Salto del Laja (Laja Falls)
A very deep gorge. We stayed at the hotel to the right. What a nice place and cheap room.
A very deep gorge. We stayed at the hotel to the right. What a nice place and cheap room.
Laja Falls.
Laja Falls.
As I look for a place to stay Jocelyn is patiently waiting on the bridge. At places like this it is much easier to walk.
As I look for a place to stay Jocelyn is patiently waiting on the bridge. At places like this it is much easier to walk.

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The view from our room - the Laja Falls. At over 1,300 feet wide is it pretty impressive and very loud.
The view from our room – the Laja Falls. At over 1,300 feet wide is it pretty impressive and very loud.

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3 thoughts on “Once again we are riding Ruta 5 and this time the Andes are in sight directly east of us

  1. Yes, we do enjoy hearing from Esther. Her comments and thoughts really do energize us. We can’t say enough about the Chilean people. We have over 2,000 miles in this country so far and have enjoyed every one of them. See you soon. Love you.

  2. What a dear, Esther, and I look forward to sharing another bottle of fine Chilean wine with you when we meet in Calif. soon! TI am checking with Nansea and maybe Aja can join us before we head to Calgary July 6th!
    Mike, thank you for being honest about these roads and sharing the kindness of the native peoples. You just need to take it a bit slower and get where you need to be to stay warm at night! I guess cycling builds up inner heat, but your frostbitten parts must be painful! Jocelyn has the youthful ability to heal faster, and I hope she is taking care of those wrists. Your days in the southern hemisphere are dwindling and soon it will be summer again! Our heat in Florida is above normal due to a lack of afternoon showers! That will change soon enough! Take care and love always, andee

  3. Your pictures today are just the best!!!….the sunsets. the colors of the trees, hills to
    mountains!!! Viewing the waterfalls, I wondered if you’d hear the sound of falling water, and you thoughtfully answered my curious mind. From the map, I can see an upcoming village of Los Angeles!! Happy to learn Jocelyn is recovering from that spill, and hope your knee will soon feel better. Your goal is near, I’m keeping you both in my prayers, and am confident in your safe cycling. Even bought a bottle of red at T.J.s from Chile,
    since you said their wines are so tasty! Here’s to you both!!! Esther, Nansea, Aja, & …..

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