San Agustin, Colombia

Tuesday February 9, 2016, 39 miles (63 km) – Total so far: 14,116 miles (22,718 km)

February 7, 2016 39 miles We continued onto our goal for Sunday of San Agustin. The day started cool then the rain kicked in during the long and sometimes steep climb to the town. It was a real struggle to climb about 2,000 feet in the last 3 miles and took a little over one hour. I walked the first ½ mile but Jocelyn excels at this type of climbing. I soon enjoyed the climb as it was up, up, up, instead of the last few days of up, down, up, down. At least we were getting somewhere. Once in San Agustin we struggled through the very busy Sunday afternoon streets before finding a really cool hospedaje off the main road. Hospedaje El Jardin (garden) Casa Colonial is a really cool place full of rooms (singles and dorms) in a garden setting with much of the construction in bamboo. After cleaning up we went in search of the Super Bowl but ended up finding a fine pizza parlor. However when we returned to our room we found the game in on our room TV complete with all the English commercials with the commentary in Spanish. I went out and found some beer and chips to enjoy with the game. It was a very fine day.

February 8, 2016 We are taking a day off to explore San Agustin.

From Wikipedia:

San Agustín (Spanish pronunciation: [san ayus'tin]) is a town and municipality in the southern Colombian Department of Huila. The town is located 227 km away from the capital of the Department, Neiva. Population is around 30,000. The village was originally founded in 1752 by Alejo Astudillo but attacks by indigenous people destroyed it. The present village was founded in 1790 by Lucas de Herazo and Mendigaña. San Agustín Archaeological Park is an archaeological site in San Agustín, Huila, Colombia. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. The site contains the largest collection of religious monuments and megalithic sculptures in Latin America[1] and is considered the world's largest necropolis.

The archaeological park corresponds to the upper basin of the Magdalena River and its primary tributaries, and relates to several municipalities in Colombia and in the town of San Agustin in Huila in the eastern foothills of the Colombian Massif, from which emerge the three Andean mountain ranges traversing the country from south to north in the Andean Region. San Agustín is 520 km from Bogotá.

The park itself corresponds to a small area with a high concentration of graves. San Agustín Archaeological Park consists of three properties:

  • San Agustine
  • The High Idols
  • The High Stones

The last two do not belong to the archaeological park of St. Augustine but are independent parks found in the town of San José de Isnos, a few miles from San Agustine.

Upper Idols is 4 km from Isnos. People can walk or horseback from St. Agustine, crossing the Strait of Magdalena River. In Upper Idols, is the tallest statue of St. Agustine is 7 meters.

Upper Stones is 7 km from Isnos. There is the I Double statue. There are also Plank, The Chaquira, Ball and Purutal nearby. From the Chaquira you can see the Strait of Magdalena.

The remains of the ancient cultural groups are scattered over an area of over 50 square kilometers, on plateaus located on either side of the canyon formed by the top of the Magdalena River.

February 9, 2016 Yesterday with 7 others we toured the surrounding tomb areas around San Agustin by horse. We spent 6 hours riding to three sites of tombs with statues before ending up at the National Architectural Park at San Agustin. The area contains 508 statues collected from many countries. It is the largest collection of pre-Columbian art in South America. Several societies developed here about 6,000 years ago. This vast mountainous territory is one of Colombia’s most significant reservoirs of water, since it is here that five major rivers cross the country in different directions. It also became the major area for burials of the different societies. Entire families were entombed together with one site having 49 people. The tombs were covered by huge slabs of rocks and statues carved to protect the tombs or as headstones. Most of the statues are not from their original placement as throughout the years tombs were unearthed and robbed of any valuables. In fact many of the statues were destroyed as some people thought there was gold hidden inside. Some of the sites we saw were original however. The statues are real, not replica’s, and are dated about 2,000 years ago.

One very interesting aspect of the statues is that it is believed that people from Asia, New Zealand, Africa, Egypt, and Mesopotamia travelled and settled here. Our park guide carried along a notebook that compared the statues to those from different countries. On examination one can see similar face features and styles say when comparing these to those found in Egypt, Africa, etc. It appears there is a definite connection. There are slant eyes and round eyes, large African adornments, different types of ears, and very similar tools shown in hands.

We finally returned to our casa after 7:30 after a long day of exploring. Since we were so tired this morning we decided to take a real break day today and explore San Agustin by foot. Tomorrow we descend to the valley and continue our trek to Ecuador.

One thing we have noticed is that the Spanish we used in Mexico and Central America is not always understood here in Colombia. So we are adapting to the new lingo.

A fine Sunday morning ride.
A fine Sunday morning ride.
A lazy Sunday morning for some.
A lazy Sunday morning for some.
A typical roadside home.
A typical roadside home.
A sweet drink is made from pushing sugar cane through a press
A sweet drink is made from pushing sugar cane through a press
Here comes the rain.
Here comes the rain.
Beautiful scenery in the foothills.
Beautiful scenery in the foothills.
We met a Swiss couple Lucas and Lucia (Baisike.li) going our way. They are exploring South America for a year.
We met a Swiss couple Lucas and Lucia (Baisike.li) going our way. They are exploring South America for a year.
We begin our climb to San Agustin - 2,000 feet, three miles and an hour or so.
We begin our climb to San Agustin – 2,000 feet, three miles and an hour or so.
We are proud of this climb.
We are proud of this climb.
Jocelyn is in her element.
Jocelyn is in her element.
Still climbing.
Still climbing.
We found the Super Bowl in San Agustin, Colombia!
We found the Super Bowl in San Agustin, Colombia!
Statues on tombs.
Statues on tombs.
Jocelyn and her fine steed.
Jocelyn and her fine steed.

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Colombia coffee grown on the mountainside.
Colombia coffee grown on the mountainside.
Some people like living in isolation as this one house on the left shows. The zig-zag path leads there from the river.
Some people like living in isolation as this one house on the left shows. The zig-zag path leads there from the river.
Cool carvings.
Cool carvings.
I can ride too!
I can ride too!
DCIM100GOPROGOPR0141.
DCIM100GOPROGOPR0141.
DCIM100GOPROGOPR0146.
DCIM100GOPROGOPR0146.

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Before entering one burial ground all females must be painted with colored tree sap. Our guide Jose applying the sap.
Before entering one burial ground all females must be painted with colored tree sap. Our guide Jose applying the sap.
Pretty. There were many trees with many different colors of sap.
Pretty. There were many trees with many different colors of sap.
Protecting the entrance to this tomb.
Protecting the entrance to this tomb.
The tree sap also colored all the statues.
The tree sap also colored all the statues.
These statues are dated about 2,000 years.
These statues are dated about 2,000 years.
The road to San Agustin (checkered red) starts on the lower right in orange. In about the middle of the picture the climb begins.
The road to San Agustin (checkered red) starts on the lower right in orange. In about the middle of the picture the climb begins.
It is believed that people of many countries settled in Colombia because of similar features in those countries.
It is believed that people of many countries settled in Colombia because of similar features in those countries.
A typical tomb.
A typical tomb.

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A smiling face with two others behind it.
A smiling face with two others behind it.
These appear to be holding baseball bats.
These appear to be holding baseball bats.
An eagle with a snake.
An eagle with a snake.
A sarcophagus similar to Egypt.
A sarcophagus similar to Egypt.
This one is eating what appears to be a snake. Notice the snake head pointed down.
This one is eating what appears to be a snake. Notice the snake head pointed down.
A very fine area to cycle, although a bit tough!
A very fine area to cycle, although a bit tough!

4 thoughts on “San Agustin, Colombia

  1. It must have been nice to try on a different kind of sattle for exploring!

    The statue art seems very welcoming, as if the culture has an almost comical view of death. Most of the faces on the statues have complete sets of teeth too! That must have been annoying to create. The artists back then were “lucky” to have such a variety of color coming from tree sap.

    The road to San Agustin in 3d mapping seems like a class 5: dont’ EVER ride this path on a bike kind of shot.

  2. Hi Esther, Your comments are so inspiring to read and we are glad you enjoy the pictures and journal entries. All the work that goes into the updates is so worth it when we read how much you enjoy them. We hope to exit Colombia today if we can make it to the border in a very heavy rain. I think we have another 50 miles till the border and we hear it opens and closes for no particular reason. The normal border crossing is west along the Pan-American Highway but we’re not normal so we chose this way. Colombia is so beautiful and it is sad to leave. But more adventure ahead. Thanks so much. Mike

  3. I may be 91, but I’m cycling with you two, learning SO much about an area of our world
    I’ve not read about before. Mike, your word descriptions and colorful pictures are
    absolutely riveting. Jocelyn, you look so at home on your horses, and so confident when
    cycling. During my day, I find myself thinking of you, wondering what your will find.
    Thanks for allowing me to cycle with you, on this once-in-a-lifetime adventure!!!
    Love to you both, and your Florida family. Esther & Nansea & Aja

  4. I may be 91, but I’m riding along with you two. I’m learning SO much about an area of our world I’ve not read about before. Mike, your word descriptions and colorful pictures
    are absolutely fascinating. Jocelyn you look so at home on your horse, and so confident when cycling. I find myself thinking of you during the day. Thanks for allowing me to go
    with you on this once in a lifetime adventure!!! Love your family, Esther & Nansea/Aja

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