The miles come harder with climbing, heat, and headwinds

Tuesday August 26, 2014, 120 miles (193 km) – Total so far: 5,085 miles (8,184 km)

Tuesday August 26, 2014 3 days 120 miles We decided to head north again into the mountains. The climbing was easy in the much cooler weather than the desert. The summit was about 7,200 feet and as we looked at the epic downhill on the other side we heard thunder. We haven’t been rained on since Erzurum, Turkey! Thunder means lightening so we started our downhill run only for it to be spoiled by an extremely bumpy and broken up road. It was the worst road we have ridden in Iran. Many of the hairpin turns were down to one lane due to the road missing from landslides. So our epic run turned out to be an epic bust as we were jarred and shaken all the way down. Plus since I use my brakes too much on a clean downhill road (as Jocelyn says) I was really using them here as I didn’t want any “air time”. Needless to say it was very hectic and I was very happy to be back at sea level where we found what we thought would be a great camping site.

That night we went entered our tents at 8:30 for what we thought would be a long needed rest. The locals had other plans though as they started appearing at 10 pm for their late night park playing and dinner. Even though the park lights were not working it was packed with kids playing and adults cooking. I still don’t understand this late night ritual and it seems as though no one works in the mornings. Maybe they are just bored since there is very little for them to do in the smaller towns. The families near us started leaving around 12:30 am then several intoxicated men appeared and took over the small pavilions as the families left. After this the motorcycles appeared and raced around the park. They all finally left around 3 am. There is an old Farsi saying: “Some people are born cows and die donkeys.”

The next two days we continued heading north then a little east as we head towards Mashhad. We did find a much quieter camp site the next day. Except for a family of wild boars we were the only ones around. We left the mountains and climbed once more into the high desert at around 4,500 feet. This very desolate area was still very pretty in its own way. But the heat was back as it was almost 120 F. Jocelyn and I are drinking about 10 liters of water between us each day and we are still parched. The miles become difficult in the heat and continued headwinds.

A 1500 year old tower used in religious ceremonies before Islam.
A 1500 year old tower used in religious ceremonies before Islam.
1400 years ago Iran was invaded by the Mohammedans who brought in Islam and built the mosques. The tower was incorporated into this mosque.
1400 years ago Iran was invaded by the Mohammedans who brought in Islam and built the mosques. The tower was incorporated into this mosque.
Beautiful sculpting.
Beautiful sculpting.

P1050374__960x1280_

P1050375__1048x1280_

A religious quote carved on the wall.
A religious quote carved on the wall.
The crosses are interesting.
The crosses are interesting.

P1050378__1280x721_

Interesting scaffolding.
Interesting scaffolding.

P1050383__1280x612_

We explored this hundreds of years old caravanasi.
We explored this hundreds of years old caravanasi.
Made out of mud, clay, and straw it still stands hundreds of years later. There were four towers where guards watched inside and out. A place of safety and shelter for caravans travelling the Silk Road.
Made out of mud, clay, and straw it still stands hundreds of years later. There were four towers where guards watched inside and out. A place of safety and shelter for caravans travelling the Silk Road.
This was a stable for the camels and horses. The other mounds were various buildings. Built along the inside walls were elevated platforms containing rooms...the first motels.
This was a stable for the camels and horses. The other mounds were various buildings. Built along the inside walls were elevated platforms containing rooms…the first motels.

P1050395__960x1280_

P1050400__1280x922_

Climbing a mountain range.
Climbing a mountain range.

P1050410__1280x814_

Spumoni likes climbing too!
Spumoni likes climbing too!

P1050415__1280x763_

P1050427__1280x1012_

P1050428__1280x770_

It could have been an epic downhill if not for the poor road condition.
It could have been an epic downhill if not for the poor road condition.
Nice guy making us tea at a mountain park.
Nice guy making us tea at a mountain park.
The only trash can in this huge beautiful mountain park. The trash was scattered all over. Sad.
The only trash can in this huge beautiful mountain park. The trash was scattered all over. Sad.

P1050445__1280x960_

P1050455__1066x1280_

P1050461__1280x1037_

This camping site was invaded by families and later motorcycles and intoxicated men until 3 am.
This camping site was invaded by families and later motorcycles and intoxicated men until 3 am.
Afshin's outside car temperature was reading 51 C. This is from Jocelyn's bike thermometer.
Afshin’s outside car temperature was reading 51 C. This is from Jocelyn’s bike thermometer.
The word got out that there was an American woman at the park eating lunch. Jocelyn was quite the celebrity posing for many pictures. No one asked me for a picture though.
The word got out that there was an American woman at the park eating lunch. Jocelyn was quite the celebrity posing for many pictures. No one asked me for a picture though.

P1050471__1280x960_

P1050472__1280x960_

Wild boars in the woods.
Wild boars in the woods.
Another camping site. Very quiet.
Another camping site. Very quiet.

P1050489__1280x943_

P1050491__782x1280_

Nice ride but hot and windy.
Nice ride but hot and windy.
Riding in the high desert at 4,500 feet.
Riding in the high desert at 4,500 feet.
We passed this guy who then stopped to talk with us as we were eating our roadside lunch. He is on day 18 of his walk from Tehran to Mashhad.
We passed this guy who then stopped to talk with us as we were eating our roadside lunch. He is on day 18 of his walk from Tehran to Mashhad.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *