Sunday September 14, 2014

We are in our 7th day in Veronica’s Dushanbe Warmshowers home. On the 2nd day we visited the China Embassy, which is closed for business, and inquired about a China visa for Americans. We asked the question three ways and were given a yes three times but for other foreigners, no. The office will open on the 17th so we may stay here for that, and for other reasons, as it would be a lot easier than cycling up to Bishkek, Northern Kyrgyzstan for this. This would require a lot of backtracking for the China border town. There are rumors that the visa can be obtained in Osh, Kyrgyzstan at the end of the Pamir Highway. We have several messages out to verify if any of the above is true. In the meantime we were able to obtain our Pamir Highway permit. There are several areas of this highway that are patrolled by the military as the highway sometimes approaches within 20 meters of Afghanistan. At these checkpoints “your papers” are checked so the permit is required. Finding the local police OVIR office, then the bank to pay the 20 Somoni’s each (about $4) was an adventure in itself due to all building names are in Cyrillic. We also found the post office to mail a few things home. Paperwork here is like it was in the states during the 70’s and 80’s. Forms are duplicated with carbon paper, no computers present, scissors to cut forms etc. Most of the world since Turkey has been like this. It is sometimes trying and tests your patience.

Currently in Dushanbe there is a huge multi-country business conference being held that includes all the Stan countries, Iran, Turkey, China, and Russia. Ten presidents, including Russia’s Putin, are meeting next door to this home in a huge military compound. Needless to say the biking has been difficult from many road closures depending on the time of day. The Tajik police are everywhere and none friendly due to all the restrictions. The last two days in some areas you cannot even stand on some sidewalks as they shout, “Keep moving!”

We believe the next few months will be very challenging in cycling, language barrier, and different food and culture. The visa work is much more demanding too. Along with all this we are both sick. I flew with a cold that has now turned into diarrhea. Veronica, our very gracious host, invited me to stay in the first floor bedroom which is very close to the bathroom. What a relief as camping and diarrhea do not mix. Jocelyn has had the tent to herself which she thoroughly enjoys but this morning she was curled up on the living room couch as she is now sick. When we arrived most of the others cyclists were sick with this too. After some discussion we attribute this to the stress of getting here. Yesterday I thought I was in the recovery mode but had a relapse. Throughout the night I was on the pot every 30-40 minutes so I am exhausted. Fortunately Jocelyn is much better. So here we sit for a lot longer than planned. But sometimes this is the way of a cyclist as they progress east. We feel very fortunate to be in this very friendly French family home, eating and cooking sometimes group meals, taking walks and rides, sipping a few beers, playing with Veronica’s 8 year old son, Gabriel, and generally great napping. Jocelyn and Gabriel have some goods tunes playing with Jocelyn’s harmonica and Gabriel’s accordion. Plus comparing notes and bicycles of the international cycle touring community is fun.

An excerpt on the Pamir Highway:

The Pamir Highway – Dushanbe, Tajikistan to Osh, Kyrgyzstan By Tim Barnes www.adventure-cycling-guide.co.uk

Built in the 1930’s to supply the furthest outposts of the Soviet empire, the 1300km Pamir Highway is a high-altitude adventure in one of the most remote and mountainous corners of Central Asia. With several climbs to over 4000m, on disintegrating roads and washboard tracks, it is a strenuous but hugely enjoyable undertaking. The spectacular mountain scenery is more than matched by the amazing hospitality of the Tajik people.