Tuesday September 9, 2014
Tuesday September 9, 2014 We have arrived in our 20th country!
Our last few days in Iran were wonderful with Ehsan’s family along with meeting and sharing lunches and dinners with many friends and relatives. So our Iran journey ended with the way it started, great hospitality. It was sad and emotional to leave as we had many new friends that we may never see again. I was really happy to see how Jocelyn was taken in by Nooshin (Ehsan’s sister) and friends. It was like they had known each other all their life.
We arrived at the airport three hours ahead of our 7am departure time. We were very glad for the extra time as it took 2 hours and 20 minutes to get to the gate. It was a scramble to find the right cash for the extra baggage and then to pay $30 each to extend our visa as we were three days over the expiration. Passport control for checking out was a real mess with the supervisor under a constant barrage of arguments with other passengers. He was way overworked and no one should be able to just walk in to his office and complain. That would never happen in America. The bikes were packed as freight two days prior so we had 10 bike bags with us. Each bike cost about $100 to pack and fly and our extra baggage fee was $66. Total cost of the flight to Dushanbe was under $700 which is way under the cost of $1,150 estimated for Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan visas. The flight was very pleasant and about 90 minutes later we landed in Tajikistan on a very hot day. Checking in was easy and we found our bikes in the cargo office. The next two hours were spent re-assembling our bikes then we were off to find our warm showers host for the next several days. Veronica has a large house with court yard and is open to host bikers heading east or west. She is very generous to open her home like this with most pitching their tents on the lawn. The entire yard and house is gated so it is very safe and comfortable.
Last night we talked with several bikers about our next step. While in Turkey we mailed our cold weather gear to a contact here in Dushanbe. This person is currently riding the Pamir’s and is not expected home for another week so we will be waiting for that. We will head to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan either through the Pamir’s which is a very popular cycling route along the Silk Road or take a more northern route. We now also have a better idea of how to explore the immense country of China. It will probably involve a train trip to the east over the immense desert area then a cycle south towards SE Asia.
Due to family obligations our world journey plans have changed such that it will no longer be continuous to the end. The rest of September will be spent in the “Stans”, October is for China, and November for SE Asia. We want to finish Asia before Christmas as we do not want to leave the bikes and then return. Jocelyn needs to continue her schooling and will take classes during the upcoming Spring semester. The following May we will continue into South America. In this way we can be home for 5 months as I feel I have been neglecting my wife and home. In the last three years between cycle touring and working in Antarctica I have only been home for 5 months.
Jocelyn wrote the following on women’s rights in Iran:
Our 1,000 mile bike ride across Iran is over. It’s common to feel a bit changed or refreshed after riding across a country but this country brought about so much more. The emotions I felt without a doubt tremendously altered my state of mind and being. I knew having to remain covered the entire time was going to be a bit difficult; it was in fact more difficult than expected. Women go about daily covered head to toe, in 100°+ temperatures – smiling and happy, or so it seems. For some it’s okay to take off the hijab while in the comforts of their own home. But they can only do so if the men in the house are close family members; husband, son or brother. If another man is there, she must remain covered. Her body is a beautiful gift and hers to own. It quite possibly can be the purist and most controlled right they have for themselves.
Many times I watched, questioned and mostly always was taken aback by the traditions of Iranian culture. While riding, at one point I broke out in tears. Crying for us, crying for the way things are. It’s the 21st century but these people live in the 12th century… I cried for remembering every time I was told I had to button up my shirt, fix my hijab, cover my hair more, and keep my legs covered. It’s disgusting but yet normal here. In this way I acknowledge Iran for enriching and showing me how to embrace the beauty I have and am. For if it wasn’t for the constant smiles and love from the women I met, I’d quite possibly never come back to this country. I’ve further learned that I won’t stop fighting and I’ll tell the truth, behind the scenes of women’s rights around the world. Which is surprisingly, still, just barely nothing.
We are really getting excited to return home. Thanks. I love you.
I think Jocelyn meant inspected rather than expected, but this part may not be read again. I am so proud of my loved ones and this journey of a lifetime. However, I am getting UBER excited to see their faces and feel their warm hugs in Florida….the end of Dec. Thanks for including me in many ways, and sharing the joy of learning about people. We are all humans and a smile is the universal language. andee momster
Hello Jessie!
So very nice to meet one of my classmates sort-of kind-of! Firstly, I appreciate the compliment as one of my many goals in life is to ultimately inspire others to go after their dreams, what ever that might be, and don’t forget to slow down and be in the ‘now’!
To answer your questions:
1. I can honestly say that I don’t have one specific place I was most excited to visit. Simply because I was UBER EXCITED to visit EVERYWHERE! Before this trip I had only visited two countries, New Zealand and Australia.
2. Just getting to ride across Iran was pretty memorable! But one of the funniest times to look back on happened to be in a small village just outside of Mashhad, Iran. We stayed in two homes of the same family in this village. After our last dinner we were all sitting around the main room chatting. I was hanging with all the men, about 12 men and myself. After the women finished the dishes they joined, sitting in the far corner with a constant stare at me. I desperately wanted to be apart of the womens circle but held off in moving over until the head woman of the house asked for me to join. She eventually did and I was so excited. I rushed over, nearly tripping. Giggles arose and didn’t stop from the five women. They stared closely now upon my body and then…they began to question if my dirty blonde hair was real. I said to Ehsan, our guide and translator, “Yes, unfortunately.. It’s called ‘Dirty Blonde.'” So then they were all in awe and began picking at my hair, expecting it and feeling the varying texture. We bonded and giggled together the rest of the time as they expected closer my toes, hair on my arms, and a few of my tattoos. So they will forever be remembered as my Chimpanzee family. Just before I went to sleep but after the midnight desert/snack of a variety melons, the head woman sent the littlest of the girls to their room and she came back with earrings. I don’t have holes in my ears though I have scars so they became very confused, they wanted to put the earrings in my ears! So I quickly shook my head and made gushing blood movements with my hands and mouth. Thankfully Ehsan stepped in and told them what I was trying to explain. I graciously took the earrings though, put them on my traveler’s anklet! So as of right now I can say that’s pretty darn memorable! But hey being in this house I am in now, in Dushanbe, Tajikistan, with 12 touring cyclist is pretty memorable. I just cooked them all Tuna Casserole, three trays and there are no leftovers!
3. Diversity is everywhere, just as it is in the US. But for one thing I have become more aware of recognizing different cultures, even the difference between Sunni and Shia! Weekends are ever changing, like in Iran the weekend is strictly only Friday. Everyone works and goes to school on Saturdays and Sundays. In Spain and France many or mostly everything is closed on Sundays and their dinners are very late. Of course though we have found out mostly all European and Muslim countries eat much later then our normal 5:30/6pm that my family used to be.
Thank you for asking questions, it’s always great to tell stories and look back on where and what I have seen!
Feel free to add me on Facebook,
Jocelyn Sunshine Rice
Hi Jocelyn!
I am a student in Mrs. Susans class and she showed this website to the class. You are a very inspiring person and what you are doing is something some people may never do in their lifetime. Ive always wanted to travel the world and see other cultures. I was looking through the places you had visit and the pictures look amazing. I wanted to ask you a few questions
1. What place were you most excited to visit and why?
2. What is your most memorable moment on the trip so far?
3. Since our class is about diversity i was wondering what are some types of diversity you have seen on your trip so far?
I hope to hear from you soon!
-Jessie Karlovitch
I am so happy to see Susan’s comment and Jocelyn is a very good writer! I love to hear the excitement and kind words that are being shared about a worldwide issue of women’s rights. Thank you both for keeping me in your hearts and know that I am forever in the wind beneath your wings! I am grateful that Mike continues to put up with me, as I have the desire to wander but not in the same way. I could be the best SAG driver! I may not like the roads far from home, but I could keep myself busy visiting with interesting people and touring towns all day, and nights too!
Love always to Mike, my sunshine, and soul sista!
Andy momster
Susan!
Thank you so much for the comment and love. I am a bit blushing and of course honored to see my little bit of writing being recognized. I wish I could speak as well as I write, something I definitely need to work on! I will try to write more on this site as my dad mainly blogs here and I blog on my facebook and instagram, you could give them my name Jocelyn Sunshine Rice on FB and SUNSHINEBELIEVETHERIDE on instagram. Will be heading into the Pamir Mountains, along the Afghanistan border. Look it up online! Will be traveling within 4000m mountains with Yurt villages and no WIFI!
Love you and forever always my favorite girlfriend,
Jocelyn
Thank you Susan. We are glad you enjoy reading about our adventures. And as you know we are not just tourists but our goal was to live with and experience life with the people we meet. So far we have been very successful even staying with our current host where several bicyclists stay while planning their next route and awaiting visas and permits.Hi to Richard.
Jocelyn and Mike, I love reading your blog. I wish you both much love, safety and a smooth journey. Jocelyn, I am going to require the class to read some of your blog in hopes that some of them will continue to correspond with you. I really want them to respond to your WOMEN RIGHTS information . . . I am going to share this site in class and put the address on our CANVAS site. Keep this updated with pictures and cultural information . . . lots of great information for you and those you share it with. Thank you for including me as family. Love you both, SUSAN