Friday June 3, 2016, 258 miles (415 km) – Total so far: 18,234 miles (29,345 km)
Total combined miles 21,983 (35,378 km)
May 30, 2016 This morning Jocelyn’s wrists and one knee were very swollen, plus there was a large contusion on her right leg. We decided to take a break day as cycling all day with swollen wrists would not be good. Fortunately, there didn’t appear to be any breaks. We were riding on a straight flat bike path when she fell after running over a 2-liter water bottle that bounced loose and onto the ground. There wasn’t any speed involved. Two cars that saw the fall did stop and offer assistance but once Jocelyn was off the ground I thanked them and they left. Once again I can’t say enough good things about the Chilean people.
We found a hotel in the next village of Malloa. I say village because that is how small it is. The hotel is on the Plaza de Armas with the church across the street and a restaurant and market on the other side. All towns and cities have a “Plaza de Armas” which is the main square.
From Wikipedia:
The Plaza de Armas (literally Weapons Square, but better translated as Parade Square or parade ground) is the name for the main square in many Hispanic American cities. Most cities constructed by the Spanish conquistadores were designed in a standard military fashion, based on a grid pattern taken from the Roman castrum, of which one of the blocks would be left vacant to form the Plaza de Armas. It is often surrounded by governmental buildings, churches, and other structures of cultural or political significance. The name derives from the fact that this would be a refuge in case of an attack upon the city, from which arms would be supplied to the defenders.
We have visited and stayed near many Plazas de Armas’ and Malloa has the smallest one yet. As usual we are the only ones staying here. In fact, there is only a caretaker and no staff present. This hotel appears to be an old mission or church building, very large and beautiful with high ceilings. It is cold but there are two radiator heaters in our room and lots of hot water. Jocelyn took a bath today which is a very unusual event. Yesterday when we arrived we spread out our tent (it rained during our camp the previous night) and the sink washed clothes throughout the room. This shows you how large the room is even with both bicycles inside. Today we rested, napped, and cooked up a delicious veggie lunch and dinner. We also enjoyed playing with the two resident doggies. It was a hoot watching them chase the local geese across the property. Tomorrow we will be back on our bikes headed to Puerto Mannt. Today started out very foggy but in a few hours that lifted and the sun shined bright. We had been told that central to southern Chile south of Santiago is mostly flat as the road winds its way just west of the Andes and east of the coastal hills. We were pleasantly surprised to find this true. We entered Chile a little over a month ago and have been riding up and down large canyons and gorges along with small to very large hills (when does a hill become a mountain?) with many long slow climbs. This is definitely a treat even if it only lasts one day. In fact, this is our first over 100km day in many weeks. Jocelyn is doing much better today after resting her swollen wrists and knee from her fall. Unfortunately, though my right knee is very painful after using that leg to brace myself through an oil slick a few days ago.
June 3, 2016 We continued south through a mostly flat region. Today the hills started again. The weather continues to be overcast and foggy all day and we rarely get above 40f. Yesterday we had the highest road kill of dogs on our entire trip as we passed by seven – very sad.
Today we left the main road to explore Saltas Del Laja.
From Wikipedia:
The Laja Falls (Spanish: Salto del Laja) is a waterfall located in the Laja River in southcentral Chile. It lies next to the old Pan-American Highway, between the cities of Los Ángeles and Chillán. Below the falls Laja River has formed a narrow canyon. Laja Falls consist of four horseshoe shaped falls - one on each arm of Laja River. The tallest (35 m) is the easternmost fall, but the western falls are 20 m tall. Total width of all four falls - approximately 455 m.
The waterfall is beautiful and we found a hotel overlooking this very wide waterfall. I consider myself the king of finding cheap rooms. And since it is offseason another cheap room was available with a little bit of negotiation since there are so many rooms available. There is also camping but it is so cold and wet. A room with a heater is much more comfortable to me.
