Exploring the ancient Mayan city of Tikal, Guatemala

Monday October 12, 2015

This morning we were up at 2:30 am for a hotel pickup at 3. We drove to National Park Tikal and walked through the jungle and climbed the highest pyramid and were in time to view the spectacular sunrise at 5:55 am. It was a religious experience as the two dozen or so people sat quietly high atop the pyramid in the dark. The rain forest was alive with howler monkeys and many other animals noisily greeting the sunrise. It was like being in church.

    from Wikipedia:

Tikal (/tiˈkäl/) (Tik’al in modern Mayan orthography) is the ruins of an ancient city found in a rainforest in Guatemala. Ambrosio Tut, a gum-sapper, reported the ruins to La Gaceta, a Guatemalan newspaper, which named the site Tikal. The Berlin Academy of Sciences’ Magazine then republished the report in 1853. Archeologists and treasure hunters then began visiting the forest. Today tourism to the site may help protect the rainforest. It is one of the largest archaeological sites and urban centers of the pre-Columbian Maya civilization. It is located in the archaeological region of the Petén Basin in what is now northern Guatemala. Situated in the department of El Petén, the site is part of Guatemala’s Tikal National Park and in 1979 it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Tikal was the capital of a conquest state that became one of the most powerful kingdoms of the ancient Maya. Though monumental architecture at the site dates back as far as the 4th century BC, Tikal reached its apogee during the Classic Period, ca. 200 to 900 AD. During this time, the city dominated much of the Maya region politically, economically, and militarily, while interacting with areas throughout Mesoamerica such as the great metropolis of Teotihuacan in the distant Valley of Mexico. There is evidence that Tikal was conquered by Teotihuacan in the 4th century AD.[6] Following the end of the Late Classic Period, no new major monuments were built at Tikal and there is evidence that elite palaces were burned. These events were coupled with a gradual population decline, culminating with the site’s abandonment by the end of the 10th century.

Tikal is the best understood of any of the large lowland Maya cities, with a long dynastic ruler list, the discovery of the tombs of many of the rulers on this list and the investigation of their monuments, temples and palaces.

The closest large modern settlements are Flores and Santa Elena, approximately 64 kilometres (40 mi) by road to the southwest.

The city has been completely mapped and covered an area greater than 16 square kilometres (6.2 sq mi) that included about 3,000 structures. The topography of the site consists of a series of parallel limestone ridges rising above swampy lowlands. The major architecture of the site is clustered upon areas of higher ground and linked by raised causeways spanning the swamps. The area around Tikal has been declared as the Tikal National Park and the preserved area covers 570 square kilometres (220 sq mi).

The ruins lie among the tropical rainforests of northern Guatemala that formed the cradle of lowland Maya civilization. The city itself was located among abundant fertile upland soils, and may have dominated a natural east–west trade route across the Yucatan Peninsula.[18] Conspicuous trees at the Tikal park include gigantic kapok (Ceiba pentandra) the sacred tree of the Maya; Tropical cedar (Cedrela odorata), and Honduras Mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla). Regarding the fauna, agouti, white-nosed coatis, gray foxes, Geoffroy’s spider monkeys, howler monkeys, harpy eagles, falcons, ocellated turkeys, guans, toucans, green parrots and leafcutter ants can be seen there regularly. Jaguars, jaguarundis, and cougars are also said to roam in the park. For centuries this city was completely covered under jungle. The average annual rainfall at Tikal is 1,945 millimetres (76.6 in).

Jess from Washington D.C. guided us to the hotel we are staying at. He has been backpacking through Mexico and is also headed to Argentina. We shared dinner with him last night at a great little spot overlooking the water. We ordered the Guatemalan beer Gallo (pronounced gayo) and were brought these litros!
Jess from Washington D.C. guided us to the hotel we are staying at. He has been backpacking through Mexico and is also headed to Argentina. We shared dinner with him last night at a great little spot overlooking the water. We ordered the Guatemalan beer Gallo (pronounced gayo) and were brought these litros!
A beautiful sunrise high atop a Mayan pyramid at the ancient of Tikal. We along with several others sat in quiet and awe as the sun rose over the valley and ancient Mayan structures.
A beautiful sunrise high atop a Mayan pyramid at the ancient of Tikal. We along with several others sat in quiet and awe as the sun rose over the valley and ancient Mayan structures.
With howler monkeys howling, birds singing, and other unknown animals greeting the sun in their own way it was a religious experience. These sunrise pictures are only edited for cropping.
With howler monkeys howling, birds singing, and other unknown animals greeting the sun in their own way it was a religious experience. These sunrise pictures are only edited for cropping.
This is where we sat in quiet.
This is where we sat in quiet.
An aerial view of Tikal.
An aerial view of Tikal.
A Mayan temple.
A Mayan temple.
An out of focus spider monkey.
An out of focus spider monkey.

P1110728__1280x697_

P1110729__1280x571_

Rising out of the rainforest.
Rising out of the rainforest.
Bromeliads growing on the trees.
Bromeliads growing on the trees.
Don't step back!
Don’t step back!
And watch each step going down. Very steep.
And watch each step going down. Very steep.
Chicle fruit helped make the discovery of Tikal while people searched for this "white gold". When dripped out of the pod it changes into the consistency of unflavored chewing gum. Hence Chiclets Gum.
Chicle fruit helped make the discovery of Tikal while people searched for this “white gold”. When dripped out of the pod it changes into the consistency of unflavored chewing gum. Hence Chiclets Gum.
Many Guatemalan highlanders are getting ready to plant their next corn crop. Here they are having a ceremony to have a good crop. When the Mayans planted a new crop the king sat on his throne in a yoga pose praying for 9 days until the corn started.
Many Guatemalan highlanders are getting ready to plant their next corn crop. Here they are having a ceremony to have a good crop. When the Mayans planted a new crop the king sat on his throne in a yoga pose praying for 9 days until the corn started.

P1110750__1280x604_

More ceremony.
More ceremony.
What a grand place and experience!
What a grand place and experience!
How did they make these?- Brute manual labor. The Mayan commoners worked 360 straight each year according to the Mayan calendar. They then had 5 days off for rest before starting another 360 days of work. The average lifespan of the workers was 30 years old.
How did they make these?- Brute manual labor. The Mayan commoners worked 360 straight each year according to the Mayan calendar. They then had 5 days off for rest before starting another 360 days of work. The average lifespan of the workers was 30 years old.
We swapped a day off the bikes for a day of walking and climbing.
We swapped a day off the bikes for a day of walking and climbing.

P1110759__1280x413_

There is a lot of work to keep this open as the jungle is always trying to claim back its territory.
There is a lot of work to keep this open as the jungle is always trying to claim back its territory.
This was a housing area.
This was a housing area.
A sacrificial round stone (not human as in the Aztecs!) and a stone to write the requests on along with dates.
A sacrificial round stone (not human as in the Aztecs!) and a stone to write the requests on along with dates.
Quite a ceremony that also strangely included heavy smoking (cigarettes or cigars) and drinking shots of an unknown liquor. Babies were also danced around the ring.
Quite a ceremony that also strangely included heavy smoking (cigarettes or cigars) and drinking shots of an unknown liquor. Babies were also danced around the ring.
Not much left of this carving.
Not much left of this carving.
Faces carved in palace stone.
Faces carved in palace stone.
The ceremony is getting larger. On the right is a round sacrifice stone. The headstone in front was used as a "whiteboard" listing when the next sacrifice was to be held and what was needed to be placed on the stone. In the fire ring is wood and whole pieces of corn.
The ceremony is getting larger. On the right is a round sacrifice stone. The headstone in front was used as a “whiteboard” listing when the next sacrifice was to be held and what was needed to be placed on the stone. In the fire ring is wood and whole pieces of corn.
Awesome Mayan architecture!
Awesome Mayan architecture!
What's very interesting is that the Mayans used trees to roll large stone pieces. They also carved circular sacrifice altars and then also carved these circular patterns. But yet they never "invented the wheel" as a tool.
What’s very interesting is that the Mayans used trees to roll large stone pieces. They also carved circular sacrifice altars and then also carved these circular patterns. But yet they never “invented the wheel” as a tool.
A few weeks ago we visited Palenque. This aerial photo of Palenque shows that more of the jungle is cleared out here than at Tikal.
A few weeks ago we visited Palenque. This aerial photo of Palenque shows that more of the jungle is cleared out here than at Tikal.
This drawing depicts what Tenochtitlán looked like. Mexico City is built right on top of this. I recently completed reading "Conquistador: Hernan Cortes, King Montezuma, and the Last Stand of the Aztecs" by Buddy Levy. from Amazon: "It was a moment unique in human history, the face-to-face meeting between two men from civilizations a world apart. In 1519, Hernán Cortés arrived on the shores of Mexico, determined not only to expand the Spanish empire but to convert the natives to Catholicism and carry off a fortune in gold. In Tenochtitlán Cortés met his Aztec counterpart, Montezuma: king, divinity, commander of the most powerful military machine in the Americas and ruler of a city whose splendor equaled anything in Europe. Yet in less than two years, Cortés defeated the entire Aztec nation in one of the most astounding battles ever waged. The story of a lost kingdom, a relentless conqueror, and a doomed warrior, Conquistador is history at its most riveting."
This drawing depicts what Tenochtitlán looked like. Mexico City is built right on top of this. I recently completed reading “Conquistador: Hernan Cortes, King Montezuma, and the Last Stand of the Aztecs” by Buddy Levy. from Amazon: “It was a moment unique in human history, the face-to-face meeting between two men from civilizations a world apart. In 1519, Hernán Cortés arrived on the shores of Mexico, determined not only to expand the Spanish empire but to convert the natives to Catholicism and carry off a fortune in gold. In Tenochtitlán Cortés met his Aztec counterpart, Montezuma: king, divinity, commander of the most powerful military machine in the Americas and ruler of a city whose splendor equaled anything in Europe. Yet in less than two years, Cortés defeated the entire Aztec nation in one of the most astounding battles ever waged. The story of a lost kingdom, a relentless conqueror, and a doomed warrior, Conquistador is history at its most riveting.”
We are staying on Flores Island. This was the place of the last Mayan stand against Hernon Cortes and the Spanish conquistadors. This island that the Mayan's built was destroyed and the Spanish reused Mayan carved stones to built a Catholic church (white in the center). There are stories of vast amounts of buried treasure here. Now it is all quaint hotels, guest houses, restaurants, and shops. It is also a popular boating and swimming area.
We are staying on Flores Island. This was the place of the last Mayan stand against Hernon Cortes and the Spanish conquistadors. This island that the Mayan’s built was destroyed and the Spanish reused Mayan carved stones to built a Catholic church (white in the center). There are stories of vast amounts of buried treasure here. Now it is all quaint hotels, guest houses, restaurants, and shops. It is also a popular boating and swimming area.
I added four pictures from Jocelyn. Happy hour last night.
I added four pictures from Jocelyn. Happy hour last night.
Cool shot of a spider monkey this morning.
Cool shot of a spider monkey this morning.
Nice ritual picture.
Nice ritual picture.
Sunset last night.
Sunset last night.

Untitled

3 thoughts on “Exploring the ancient Mayan city of Tikal, Guatemala

  1. I’ve talked with a few about the Maui sunrise and getting up early for that. Thanks for the nice words. This trip is all about the people and cultures as we like to hang with the local. Wish we could share more together. Someday maybe on a train or such.

  2. Amazing! What I realize from your writing and pictures is that the history books cannot convey the spiritual feeling you expressed as you watched the sunrise from the top of the Tikal pyramid. I would find it a difficult climb, but well worth the view, as we found the same experience on the island of Maui in 1981. I am proud of you two for digging in to find the history and culture of the peoples that inhabit the land that you pass through on your bikes. Keep exploring and sharing! Love always, andee

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *