Riding through the Honduran mountains southeast towards Tugucigalpa

Monday October 26, 2015, 82 miles (132 km) – Total so far: 12,695 miles (20,431 km)

We left Copan Ruinas and headed towards Santa Rosa de Copan. We figured it would take a few days and Jocelyn had mapped out a dirt road that looked interesting. The road we left on was fine with little traffic. Once we arrived at the dirt road we questioned it. A local kept saying “No, no…peligroso (dangerous)” so we talked it over and decided to listen to the local knowledge. We knew it would be a very steep up and down dirt road but wasn’t sure he was talking about that or maybe the people that live along there. It would have saved us about 25 miles but we decided to stay on the regular road. Many people have told us that Honduras is not safe. So far we have seen a mixed reaction from people seeing us. Except for dodging many huge potholes the road was fine and the mountain and valley views were beautiful. We were also told to never camp in the wild because it was not safe but to camp near a house was okay. Others have said not to camp at all. We made it to the town of La Entrada the first night.

That night Jocelyn was sick with some kind of intestinal bug. The previous day for lunch we ate street food which is usually pretty good. She ate the chicken while I had some beans and salad so we think it might be food poisoning. When I’m hot and tired with much more road work ahead I don’t like eating much which isn’t a good thing. She was up on the toilet most of the night. We decided to head out anyway with the goal of Santa Rosa de Copan another 35 some miles. With about 15 miles to go Jocelyn was really struggling so I put out my thumb and surprisingly a pickup almost immediately stopped. We loaded our bikes in the bed. He was heading home to Santa Rosa after working all night. We were soon on the outskirts of town where he was turning off. Back on the bikes we climbed up and down through this very hilly city and found a cheap hotel ($20). After several hours in bed Jocelyn felt well enough to explore the city a little. We were caught in a huge thunderstorm that lasted a few hours. In between the torrential rain we walked around and found a decent restaurant. Then it was a taxi ride with a driver who wanted double the fare. We gave him his quoted price but then said it was for one. We have encountered this all around the world too. Most of the time we make sure it is for both of us but sometimes we forget. It was raining hard and just wanted to get back. The driver was very angry with us and stormed off.

It is sad to see how dogs around the world are treated. In La Entrada we had eaten at a Chinese restaurant and were served an enormous portion of shrimp fried rice. We took the huge box of leftovers back to the hotel to have for breakfast but since Jocelyn was sick she couldn’t eat. I went in search of dogs to feed. I saw one who was approaching me then turned around when he saw three girls. At that he jumped around and wagged his tail like he knew them. All three immediately picked up rocks and started throwing them at him. We have seen this in countries all over the world, adults and children throwing rocks at dogs like it is a game. This is so very sad. I ended up dumping the leftovers on the side and I’m sure it was soon lapped up as most dogs here are strays. Today Jocelyn was feeling better so after a morning rest we toured the world famous cigar making factory Fabrica de Tabacos La Flor de Copan. They make cigars from Central American tobaccos. The company employs 650 people. It takes about three years of curing before the cigar is rolled. It was a fascinating tour. Tomorrow we continue riding.

I can ride a horse too!
I can ride a horse too!

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We rarely eat meat besides chicken but heard about this great grilling place in Copan Ruinas.
We rarely eat meat besides chicken but heard about this great grilling place in Copan Ruinas.
We had an assortment of meats grilled to perfection.
We had an assortment of meats grilled to perfection.
That's one big curb.
That’s one big curb.
Riding out of Copan Ruinas.
Riding out of Copan Ruinas.
Every cyclist walks at some point.
Every cyclist walks at some point.

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Corn spread out for drying. After this it is ground to flour.
Corn spread out for drying. After this it is ground to flour.
It seems like it could get pretty dirty while drying.
It seems like it could get pretty dirty while drying.
Instead of a chicken coop this ranch has tepees set up with a staked chicken in each shelter.
Instead of a chicken coop this ranch has tepees set up with a staked chicken in each shelter.
Lots of old cemeteries in the country.
Lots of old cemeteries in the country.
Honduras was conquered by who else but the Spanish in 1524.
Honduras was conquered by who else but the Spanish in 1524.
They gained independence in 1821.
They gained independence in 1821.
A beautiful country.
A beautiful country.
Jocelyn has lots of admirers.
Jocelyn has lots of admirers.

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Hey - we're almost home!
Hey – we’re almost home!
A fine siding job.
A fine siding job.
A simple meal turned huge. The fried rice and shrimp are piled about 5 inches. We make it a point to share a meal.
A simple meal turned huge. The fried rice and shrimp are piled about 5 inches. We make it a point to share a meal.
An old Bluebird school bus.
An old Bluebird school bus.
If you don't have enough room then just pile them on your roof.
If you don’t have enough room then just pile them on your roof.
There was about a dozen fireworks stands along this road. Honduras is one of the poorest countries in the Western Hemisphere. According to a 2012 study they also have the highest murder rate in the world.
There was about a dozen fireworks stands along this road. Honduras is one of the poorest countries in the Western Hemisphere. According to a 2012 study they also have the highest murder rate in the world.
Another fine home.
Another fine home.
This must take years of practice. We have also had beer delivered to us on the head.
This must take years of practice. We have also had beer delivered to us on the head.
We were eating on a restaurant patio when this guy comes up and wants to sell us live chickens that he had hanging down from his hands. He displayed them nicely here. We declined.
We were eating on a restaurant patio when this guy comes up and wants to sell us live chickens that he had hanging down from his hands. He displayed them nicely here. We declined.
Santa Rosa de Copan.
Santa Rosa de Copan.
After resting several hours Jocelyn was feeling better so we wandered outside to explore the town.
After resting several hours Jocelyn was feeling better so we wandered outside to explore the town.
Cathedral de Santa Rosa de Copan.
Cathedral de Santa Rosa de Copan.
Santa Rosa was built in the 18th century with tobacco as the major industry.
Santa Rosa was built in the 18th century with tobacco as the major industry.
It seems dogs like roofs in many countries.
It seems dogs like roofs in many countries.
This road needs work like most of them do.
This road needs work like most of them do.
A tall narrow sidewalk.
A tall narrow sidewalk.
A tour of the cigar factory complete with two samples. No photography was allowed.
A tour of the cigar factory complete with two samples. No photography was allowed.
A very fine cigar factory. Really fascinating to watch all the workers. It is about a three year process.
A very fine cigar factory. Really fascinating to watch all the workers. It is about a three year process.
Building a new road one bag of cement at a time. Hand mixed on the ground too.
Building a new road one bag of cement at a time. Hand mixed on the ground too.

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11 thoughts on “Riding through the Honduran mountains southeast towards Tugucigalpa

  1. Your courage and fortitude amaze us, John, Nansea, Pete and Aja, and I. Soon you will get the needed meds from your cousin, and you’ll both be feeling better. Till then, may the healing continue, as you cycle toward your next goal. Enjoying seeing your contrasting views of lush landscapes and poverty among the people. I’m praying for safe travels and comfortable stops! Your last hostel was a God send! Esther

  2. Always nice to see and read your adventures… Hope, Jocelyn is fine again and you can continue. Else, try the local ron, it helps !!! I tried it myself…
    Seems we won’t meet again as I’m already in Ecuador but I will follow you…

  3. Hi Boyd. My niece (Jocelyn’s cousin) works here in the Honduras so we are riding to her. We have heard that El Salvador is worse but plan to make a boat ride from there to Nicaragua. Thanks for writing. Mike

  4. Hi Pam, We had to take another day off today after just 35 miles. So we had a mostly rest day. Hope to get going again tomorrow but will sit if either of us are not up to it. Nice to hear from you again. Mike

  5. Looking at these pictures make me feel blessed that I am living in the United States. I have to agree with you, Mike the Dogs seem to be miss treated. I hope you are both feeling okay now.

  6. Is El Salvador as dangerous as Honduras? Just wondering why you didn’t go through there. Then the Honduras portion of the trip would have been much shorter.

  7. Thanks for all the comments Andee. It seems like sometimes you have been to these places. I guess being a teacher you have visited the world “virtually”. I have the bug now and was up most of the night sitting on the toilet. Jocelyn seemed to have slept well though. I hope to ride out today. There are always bushes. It depends on Jocelyn as she is still sleeping. Thanks. Love you.

  8. Just spoke to Jocelyn and she is feeling better, but said her dad wasn’t. This is not a great place to be sick and I hope you both rest a little more before you ride up those hills! I have been to a cigar factory in Ybor City here in Florida! It smelled wonderfully sweet. Cary and I are enjoying the cooler weather tonight and thinking of you two. Take care and love always, andee

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