Through the desert to the coast and the port city of Antofagasta

Tuesday May 3, 2016, 358 miles (576 km) – Total so far: 16,837 miles (27,097 km)

April 30, 2016 We left Pozo Almonte kind of late since we were short on pesos, the ATM wasn’t working, and the bank hours were 9-2. Once again we were ripped off by a bank since they always charge more for a money exchange than the guy on the street. We did change some dollars in Arica with a street guy and got 670 pesos to the dollar. The bank only paid 650. The official rate was 675 so the street guy was once again the best way. We have found banks around the world paying the lowest. We didn’t have much of a choice so we took it.

We continued south through the lava flow desert. These flows are recent as there is no plant life on them. Recent is probably a few thousand years (or more) old. At one point we heard a “popping” sound and thought a gun was being fired. When we stopped to make a tuna sandwich at a shaded bus stop we heard the loud popping clearer and it was coming from the lava. I walked on part of the flow while eating and discovered it was air pressure escaping from lava vents and popping as it escaped. Really fascinating scenery as we ride through this varied landscape. The miles come easy as the terrain is mostly flat and the wind favorable.

We have not had so many good honks, waves, and thumbs up from car drivers, truckers, and even bus drivers since crossing Iran in 2014. By far this has been the friendliest country in South America. Today as we were nearing a rest stop we saw a pickup truck with all the doors open and Barry White blaring from the speakers. In front was an older guy dancing. As we passed he called us over and handed us a plastic bag full of granola bars. I reached in to pick out two and he said “total”, so I took the whole bag. What a nice and fun guy and it was so random with Barry White singing! We talked for a few minutes and he said in Spanish, “Please don’t litter.” That is another pleasing experience – no roadside trash dumping here. Today we continued and stopped near sunset at a lone desert restaurant for dinner. Nobody else was around and we thought it a great place to possibly camp – the Coors beer was cold. The senorita showed us a small clean cabin and at $15 we were sold, moved the bikes inside then spent a few hours in the restaurant eating. After going through all four beers on premises, after all it is Saturday night, the senorita showed us a bottle of red wine that was cheaper than three beers. The bottle of wine has probably been sitting here for years. So we bought that and settled in for the night.

May 3, 2016 The last few days in the desert have been long with camping and rooms. The days are hot and the nights cold. Last night Jocelyn found some ruins to camp in and also set a fire from wood she had carried for several days. Along with that I had two beers which we enjoyed with the fire. On second thought we should have had the beers for breakfast as the south winds pick up during the night and bring a big chill-down as this is the southern hemisphere. It is odd to think that way for us northern hemisphere people. This morning I was up with the sun at 8 and attempted to warm up with a brisk walk through the desert. After about 30 minutes I gave up and crawled back into my sleeping bag to get warm. From there I read my Kindle until 9:30 when it did warm a little. Once the land warms up the winds switch and come from the west. Jocelyn made us tortillas with peanut butter, bananas, and apple. Today we finally found a truck stop restaurant after a few days without anything. We had a delicious lunch, restocked our water, and continued south. We almost ran out of water but had a plan to stop and hold out a water bottle to passing motorists. We are sure that someone would have immediately stopped and gave us water. Tonight we got a room in a small town since in this area both sides of the road are fenced off because of railroad tracks.

May 5, 2016 We continued south towards Santiago and rode into the major port city of Antofagasta. After walking around the historical city center I found a nice city hotel after nine tries. So many that I checked with were “anti-bike” which is the first in several countries. Many of the reception people were just not friendly but this is a big city. The hotel we finally registered in has a very friendly staff and were happy to accommodate our bikes. After 11 days of riding we decided to take a day off for rest and exploring this very interesting city.

A few more pictures from Hawaii, thanks to my sister Tish. My son Cary, Jocelyn and their Uncle Jim.
A few more pictures from Hawaii, thanks to my sister Tish. My son Cary, Jocelyn and their Uncle Jim.
It was nice to spend time with both of my kids.
It was nice to spend time with both of my kids.
Saying goodbye to Jim, Tish, and Cary. "Thanks for all the driving Jim and the wonderful family time Tish".
Saying goodbye to Jim, Tish, and Cary. “Thanks for all the driving Jim and the wonderful family time Tish”.
My son and I.
My son and I.
I don't know what this is but it was being towed and pushed down the road.
I don’t know what this is but it was being towed and pushed down the road.
A Chilean National Park.
A Chilean National Park.
Riding through the lava flows. This area was popping as air pressure was escaping through vents.
Riding through the lava flows. This area was popping as air pressure was escaping through vents.
This lava flow was all rocks.
This lava flow was all rocks.
Two wrecks.
Two wrecks.

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A cross made of license plates.
A cross made of license plates.
A little girl roadside memorial complete with a slide.
A little girl roadside memorial complete with a slide.
We came upon this guy dancing to Barry White outside his truck. He gave us a bag of granola bars.
We came upon this guy dancing to Barry White outside his truck. He gave us a bag of granola bars.
A roadside memorial with dinosaurs.
A roadside memorial with dinosaurs.
We came upon a restaurant and were going to camp but rented this cheap cabin. It was a very cold night.
We came upon a restaurant and were going to camp but rented this cheap cabin. It was a very cold night.
A yawn, not a growl. Very friendly.
A yawn, not a growl. Very friendly.
A true Chilean sunset.
A true Chilean sunset.
Our cabin is to the right.
Our cabin is to the right.

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A fun Saturday night. We went through all 4 beers they had in stock then bought the only bottle of wine. At $5 it was a good Chilean wine. In fact we are in wine country - very good and cheap.
A fun Saturday night. We went through all 4 beers they had in stock then bought the only bottle of wine. At $5 it was a good Chilean wine. In fact we are in wine country – very good and cheap.
The other dog on premises slept with us in the cabin. He followed us down the road like he wanted to stay with us. We walked him back a few times until he finally stayed.
The other dog on premises slept with us in the cabin. He followed us down the road like he wanted to stay with us. We walked him back a few times until he finally stayed.
This room was crowded as it gets sometimes with bikes. You develop a sixth sense on whether you leave the bikes outside your room. Most times the bikes stay with us.
This room was crowded as it gets sometimes with bikes. You develop a sixth sense on whether you leave the bikes outside your room. Most times the bikes stay with us.
This truck just ran off the road.
This truck just ran off the road.

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A great roadside lunch of tortilla, avocado, and tuna. Tortillas - what a great find. Thanks Jocelyn! But no shade until 2 hours later...
A great roadside lunch of tortilla, avocado, and tuna. Tortillas – what a great find. Thanks Jocelyn! But no shade until 2 hours later…
...and a nice nap.
…and a nice nap.
Another great camp site - ruins from an abandoned house.
Another great camp site – ruins from an abandoned house.
Sunset.
Sunset.
Jocelyn had collected firewood for a few days. That and the two beers I had saved made for a nice evening in the desert. On second thought though we should have saved the beers for breakfast as they would have been near ice cold.
Jocelyn had collected firewood for a few days. That and the two beers I had saved made for a nice evening in the desert. On second thought though we should have saved the beers for breakfast as they would have been near ice cold.
An old shoe sole becoming one with the earth.
An old shoe sole becoming one with the earth.
Jocelyn is now riding an "officially licensed" vehicle.
Jocelyn is now riding an “officially licensed” vehicle.
Two big loads at this truck stop. I would like to see the dump truck that this box fits to.
Two big loads at this truck stop. I would like to see the dump truck that this box fits to.
Some kind of tank maybe.
Some kind of tank maybe.
A few days ago I was thinking that we have had no punctures in all of South America. It looks like Jocelyn is praying as she changes the punctured tube...our first since Nicaragua. Not bad!
A few days ago I was thinking that we have had no punctures in all of South America. It looks like Jocelyn is praying as she changes the punctured tube…our first since Nicaragua. Not bad!
The senorita driving stopped and gave us each a Red Bull. My first ever.
The senorita driving stopped and gave us each a Red Bull. My first ever.
I love watching distant trains.
I love watching distant trains.
A cool mountain and matching clouds.
A cool mountain and matching clouds.
Entering the Chilean port city of Antofagasta.
Entering the Chilean port city of Antofagasta.
Continuing our way south to Santiago and then who knows where as we will fly with our bikes to possibly Canada late June.
Continuing our way south to Santiago and then who knows where as we will fly with our bikes to possibly Canada late June.

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